Friday, December 2, 2011

Puppy Food and Vaccines Summing it Up - Part 10 of 10 of Online Dog Training

Before you bring your puppy home decide what you will feed your pup. Raw diet is the best! Otherwise get a quality kibble. Feed your puppy the best that you can. This will save you tons of money in vet bills; at least this has my experience.

Make sure that you bring home with your new pup enough of his old food that he is use to eating for the transition to his new food. Otherwise it will be too hard on his digestive track. Your pup is most likely to get diarrhea from a quick change in food. This will play havoc with your house training! Take about two weeks or more to make the transition, especially if changing over to raw. Watch how much raw bone you feed it will give your pup diarrhea also until his tummy gets use to it.

If you decide on kibble, remember that all kibble is dead food even the best kibble should be supplemented with raw bones, meats including organ meats, two raw eggs or cooked for five minutes only, once a week, cottage cheese, veggies, nuts, and fruits.

Note: No onions, chocolate, cocoa, raisins, unless organic, or macadamia nuts.

Here are some guidelines for choosing quality kibble for your pup:


  • You want to check the first 5 ingredients for protein source. You don't want to see by-products of any kind listed.

  • Beet Pulp: residue from sugar beets, added for fiber, is a sugar residue that may improve palatability of poor quality food. Not dangerous, but not necessary in quality kibble.

  • Soybean meal: the oil is removed with a solvent, not healthy. Soybean meal isn't processed effectively by Dogs or cats either. Avoid, not necessary.

  • Cellulose: fancy word for indigestible plant fiber, one ex: sawdust. Avoid this.

  • Fish: the whole fish usually isn't used and is a fake source of protein or if whole fish is used usually the mercury levels are too high for human consumption. Fish needs to be identifies, of human grade quality and know what parts are used.

  • Fat: Your pup needs fat, but it needs to be identified - chicken fat is good. Fats can be rendered or rancid, also sprayed on top to entice Dogs to eat poor quality food. Avoid animal fat, too vague.

  • Emulsifiers, surfactants, colors and antimicrobial agents are added to almost all commercial foods to extend shelf life and enhance customer satisfaction are not recommended.

  • BHT, BHA: from petroleum cause liver enlargement and impairing DNA synthesis. Avoid these.

  • Ethoxiquin: rubber stabilizer marked as poison used as preservative. Poison!

  • Artificial colors FD&C red #40 (carcinogen), yellow #5 (not tested, and sodium nitrate, a red coloring that produces the carcinogen nitrosamine if ingested on a daily basis. Avoid.

  • Sweeteners such as corn syrup, sugar, maltose and dextrose all foster yeast overgrowth and overtax the pancreas are used to entice pets to eat poor quality and rancid foods. Avoid these, not needed in quality kibble.

If a food says meat, it should be identified and I have never opened a bag of kibble and seen meat in there. it is also my understanding that this means the percentage is measured before processing so after it is made into meal (which has to happen) you are actually getting a less percentage and it shouldn't be listed first. You also want to know that the meal is a quality meal and came from quality human grade meats and not from by-products like beaks, feet, feathers and the like. All kibble will have some grains, it has too. Brown rice is better then white rice. Again you want quality human grade grains not the scraps and hulls. Dogs don't have a high carbohydrate need and cats even less, if any. They both need meat protein as their number one source of food. They are carnivores just look at their teeth.

Now as far as vaccinations go, once your pup receives his puppy shots he is pretty much set for life. If you're not sure the following year have a titer test done. When you get the rabies vaccine get the three-year shot. The one-year and three-year are the exact same shot, same amount of serum. Rabies is the only shot you have to have by law. One Rabies shot is actually good for nine to ten years, but at this point you still have to have one at least every three years. You will pay more for the three-year shot isn't that a hoot.

Good luck with your puppy and happy training. I wish you a wonderful, happy, fun, and healthy life together.




For more information on Puppy Training, get your Free Ebook on Leadership and Communication and to read about their up coming Dr. C's 7 Keys holistic training seminar go here: [http://www.simpledogtrainingsecrets.com]

To find out more about how to do puppy testing and get your free Puppy Testing PDF go to [http://www.simpledogtrainingsecrets.com/puppy.html]

Tracy Lenderink, has had a love and passion with special communication with dogs all her life. Tracy has spent over 40 years as an Animal Behaviorist, Trainer, and Seminar Speaker assisting pet owners with their problems. It has been said of Tracy that she is a "Master in Creating a Bridge of Knowledge Between the Animal and Human Spirit." See what others are saying about Tracy too.

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