Tina and Chandi - Britain's Got Talent 2010 - Auditions Week 1

Britain's Got Talent: Kate and Gin from series 2 in 2008 have always been an incredibly tough act to follow, but Tina and Chandi may have just exceeded them! With their incredible dance routine, Simon will be sad he missed it! itv.com

It's A Dog's Life (Part 1)

A bull terrier tells his life story, from the streets of the Bowery to a life of luxury. Part 1 of 9 Sorry for the Poor Quality, it's a VHS Rip, This Film isn't Available on DVD It's A Dog's Life Bull Terrier 1955

Dog Training - How to train an attack dog. K9-1 Dog Training Style

Dog Training. How to train a dog to attack. guard dog breeds are being trained to attack and protect using muzzles, hidden sleeve training, dog bite suits, and other dog training methods. Dog training in New York. Personal protection training, obedience dog training, aggressive, and aggression rehab dog training. Many new dog training methods are developed at k9-1 specialized Dog Training. www.k9-1.com

Amazing Shelter Dog Rescue Story

A shelter dog's story: Watch the story of how an ill-mannered former shelter dog, Vinny Love, transforms into a wonderful companion with talent! I didn't raise him from when he was a puppy. In fact, I know nothing of his history. He's not purebred. And he didn't have the perfect manners, in fact he had aggression issues! However, with training, he was able to transform into a great dog with wonderful manners. I see tons of awesome purebred Retrievers, German Shepherds, Australian Shepherds, Belgian Malinois, Border Collies, and Jack Russell Terriers doing stunts and obedience but Vinny and I are proof that mix-breed shelter dogs can do it too, EVEN the ones with behavior issues! Our goal through these videos is to not only showcase Vinny Love's talent, but more importantly, show the world that there are MILLIONS of remarkable animals just like Vinny being euthanized and KILLED in animal shelters worldwide. If Vinny and I have even inspired 1 person to adopt his/her next animal through our videos, we've done our job.

Purebred Labrador puppies

Visit out web site for the list on dogs we have in stock now: www.upmarketpets.com All of our puppies come with a 7 day health guarantee, they have had their 1st Vaccination, they have been micro chipped, Vet checked, treated for fleas, and have been dewormed. Breed descriptions: www.upmarketpets.com Register in our Waiting List: www.upmarketpets.com View our Pet of the Month: www.upmarketpets.com

Rottweiler Puppies (7 Weeks Old)

First thing I did in Buffalo was visit my Uncle and his dogs! More of MY PETS (playlist): www.youtube.com ★LIKE my videos? Share them! bit.ly ►WATCH MORE: bit.ly ★Buy T-shirts: DistrictLines.com MY LINKS: • Main ‪youtube.com • Daily ‪youtube.com • Alternate youtube.com • Twitter ‪twitter.com • Facebook ‪facebook.com • Google+ plus.ly • Dailybooth ‪dailybooth.com • Tumblr ScottKinmartin.tumblr.com • Formspring ‪http • Flickr ‪flickr.com • Funny or Die? funnyordie.com Theme song produced by Robbie Jay • youtube.com

Identifying Dog Worms and their Symptoms

There are 5 different types of dog worms (internal parasites), which your dog can fall prey to. These are: heartworm, hookworm, roundworm, tapeworm and whipworm. As a dog owner, I recommend that you educate yourself on these worms in order to be able to recognize the symptoms if they should become evident in your dog.

Early worm detection is important because each type of dog worm requires a different form of treatment. You should also be aware of the fact that roundworm and hookworm are zoonotic, which means that these worms can be transmitted to humans. Some worm infestations may show little to no symptoms, whereas others can demonstrate severe symptoms, such as vomiting, diarrhea and weight loss. Some dog worms can be seen by the naked eye while some cannot, therefore it is a good idea to ask your vet to perform a stool test for dog worms once a year.

Below you can find a list of common telltale symptoms of dog worm infestation, but keep in mind that these symptoms can also be a sign of a more serious problem. Either way, always consult a veterinarian whenever your dog is not "his usual self."

• Dull coat
  


• Weight loss
  


• Appetite loss
  


• Pot-bellied appearance
  


• Coughing
  


• Low energy level
  


• Diarrhea
  


• Vomiting
  

ROUNDWORMS (Toxocara canis, Toxascaris leonina)

There are two types of Roundworm: Toxocara canis and Toxascaris leonine. This is the most common type of dog worm, which affects the intestines and causes a pot-bellied appearance, mostly in puppies. There are a few ways puppies can become infected. Puppies are often infected before birth through the mother's uterus or through her milk. Puppies can also contract these worms through the ingestion of an infected animal (such as a rodent) or infected soil. Roundworm eggs can live in soil for many years. Once a puppy has ingested the infected soil, the eggs will hatch in his intestines, allowing the worms to live there and grow to adulthood. These adults will then produce more eggs.

Roundworms may be found in your dog's stool or vomit. They can grow to about 7 inches in length and have a spaghetti-like appearance. If this type of infestation is not detected early and is allowed a chance to develop, a buildup of worms in the intestines can cause an obstruction which may result in death. The symptoms of a severe infestation are: pot-belly appearance, diarrhea, vomiting, dull coat and weight loss.

Puppies should be dewormed every 2 weeks between 2 and 12 weeks of age, then monthly until he is 6 months old. Once your puppy has reached 6 months of age, he is less susceptible to contracting these worms but should continue yearly exams (or more often if considered high-risk).

Because Roundworm can be transmitted to humans, it is important to promote good hygiene, such as washing your hands regularly. Transmission of this dog worm to humans is usually through infected soil, which may be in your backyard or front lawn. Because the eggs are sticky and can easily adhere to hands or clothing, make sure children (and adults) wash their hands after playing outside (especially at a park or playground), after playing with the dog and before it's time to eat.

Treatment generally involves administering oral medication (dewormer) with follow-up fecal exams and a monthly heartworm medication. Try 1-800-PetMeds - America's Pet Health Resource

Prevent your dog from contracting roundworms by cleaning up fecal matter from the backyard as often as possible. Also, administering a heartworm medication such as HeartGard - Prescription Heartworm medication for Dogs & Cats is a good preventive. Do not mix wormers and consult your vet before giving your dog any medication. And last, but not least, always remember annual exams.

HOOKWORMS (Ancylostoma caninium)

Like Roundworm, Hookworm harbors in the intestines and can also be transmitted to humans. Hookworms can affect a dog at any age. It is a small, thin worm that hooks on to the intestinal wall and sucks the blood from its victim, which cause anemia and perhaps death. Due to their sharp teeth, they also cause bleeding in the intestines. Hookworms are not visible by the naked eye, therefore should be diagnosed by a vet. As with roundworm, hookworms also live and grow to adulthood in the intestines. They can also be transmitted to pups while in the mother's uterus or through her breast milk. A dog infected with hookworm would experience bloody stool, anemia, weight loss, pale gums, diarrhea and low energy level. Skin irritation can be a sign of a severe infestation.

Hookworms can be transmitted to humans by penetration of the skin, making it is possible for people to become infected simply by walking barefoot on infected soil. Hookworms, when transmitted to humans, can cause bleeding in the intestines along with abdominal pain and diarrhea.

Treatment usually consists of oral medications (dewormer), follow-up fecal exams, intravenous therapy and, if necessary, a blood transfusion. Hookworm infestation can kill your pup before the worm is ever detected. This is why it is so important to keep up with veterinary visits and exams.

TAPEWORMS (Dipylidium caninum)

The tapeworm gets its name from its long, flat, tape-like appearance. It is yet another parasite that affects the intestines, and like the roundworm, can be seen by the naked eye. Broke pieces of this dog worm would be found in the dog's fecal matter, which give it a rice-like appearance. These pieces of worm, although broken, can be found (still moving) around the dog's anus, in his stool or in his bed. Common symptoms of severe tapeworm infestation are abdominal pain, nervousness, severe itching around the anus, vomiting and weight loss.

Transmission to dogs is often caused by the ingestion of infected fleas. Although, humans are susceptible to being infected, a dog cannot transmit the dog worm to a human directly.

Regular over-the-counter deworming medication is not effective in eliminating this type of dog worm. A prescription dewormer is administered orally or by injection (praziquantel or epsiprantel). Consult your vet. Try 1-800-PetMeds - America's Pet Health Resource

WHIPWORMS (Trichuris vulpis)

Whipworms are long, thin (whip-shaped) dog worms that live in the dog's colon and are not visible by the naked eye. They attach themselves to the intestinal walls and feed off of them which, in turn, causes intestinal bleeding. Common symptoms of whipworm infestation are anemia, weight loss, flatulence, diarrhea with blood or mucus in the stool and lack of energy.

Although whipworms are the most difficult to eliminate among the families of dog worms, there is effective treatment available.

Whipworm is most effectively treated with fenbendazole (panacur), but febantel can also be used. Prescription medications are usually more effective. The treatment lasts for up to 5 days and is repeated after 3 weeks. After this treatment is finished, consult your vet about recommending a heartworm medication (containing milbemycin oxime) as a prophylactic to future infestation. Try 1-800-PetMeds - America's Pet Health Resource

Along with administering heartworm medication regularly, here are other ways to prevent reinfection:

• Remove feces from backyard every few days


• Clean yard with a safe cleaning agent (which kills worms)


• Have feces tested every 6 months (more often if previously infected)

HEARTWORMS (Dirofilaria immitis)

Heartworm, although highly preventable, has the potential to be fatal, if contracted and left untreated.

Heartworm is spread by mosquitoes, mostly during the warm months when mosquitoes are most active. The mosquito becomes infected from biting dogs that carry the disease. These dog worms destroy the muscle and tissue of the heart, which can cause congestive heart failure and result in death. At this advanced stage, your dog would experience the typical signs of worms, such as pot-belly, coughing, lack of energy and dull coat.

Unfortunately, there are no symptoms of this disease until it has progressed to an advanced stage. For this reason, it is important to start your dog on a heartworm preventative such as HeartGard - Prescription Heartworm medication for Dogs & Cats at 6 months of age (after the first stage deworming process is complete. Check with your vet). Prevention is the best medicine.

General guidelines for dog worm prevention

• When walking your dog in a park, picking up his feces as a standard practice not only prevents soil contamination, but also prevents the spread of many other dog diseases.



• Regular visits to the vet and stool testing is a great way to prevent dog worms, as well as other illnesses. Twice-yearly worm testing is recommended. Make sure your dog is tested for worms before starting a heartworm preventative.



• High-risk dogs should be screened more often (check with your vet).



• Flea control is important because fleas are responsible for the spread of tapeworms.



• Most puppies find feces quite appetizing. Keep your dog away from feces: his own as well as others. This is the most common form of worm infestation.



• When cleaning your dog's area, such as his bed or crate, spray it with a strong saltwater solution and let dry. This aids in the prevention of worms.



• Before traveling with your dog to obscure destinations, consult your vet of the potential risks to your dog.



• Avoid exposing your dog to stray animals, birds and dead rodents, which often harbor immature tapeworms that can mature inside your dog.



• Contact your vet if your dog displays any symptoms after receiving worm medication.

This information is NOT intended to replace the advice of a veterinarian, dog trainer or pet care professional.

Nancy Settecasi, Owner of Happy K-9 Dog Care Proud owner of Cookie and Skippy, Cocker Spaniels, Dog Lover http://www.happyk-9.com

Rhodesian Ridgebacks, Dogs that chase down and hold lions at bay, Lion hunters.

There are videos of a single Rhodesian Ridgeback chasing a lion up a tree. A Male lion, I saw the video Awhile back. It was something else, but I guess with all big cats man has something to do with it, and fear animals have instinctively of man. Rhodesian Ridgebacks chase lions and track, mainly used in South Africa. these is a remarkably breed, also known as lion hunters.

Top 10 Smartest Dog Breeds! (Official Kennel Clubs List)

www.DogsTop10.com Song: Who Lets The Dogs Out by Bahamen These are top 10 smartest dogs, made by Kennel Clubs, an official dog breed organization, based on how many repetitions it took for a certain breed to master a new command. The breeds on our list took at least 5 repetitions or less to learn a new command, and tended to obey first commands more than 95 per cent of the time. Don't be mad if your dog is not in this list ;p

Bread Mold Science Fair Projects Ideas

If you're looking for an interesting science fair project, then you may want to read more about bread mold science fair projects that you can do. They are easy and inexpensive to do but also allow you to follow all the steps of the scientific method.

It helps to first understand a little about mold. Mold is another word for fungi whose bodies gather and congeal together to form cottony vegetative bodies. Not all mold is cottony, however. Types of slimy mold are more like amoeba than their cottony cousins and leave a moister, slicker mass on the molded surface. However when it comes to bread, you will most always see the drier, threadlike mold.

Mold commonly grows on bread faster in warm, dark, moist conditions. However, mold can grow in light, and some molds can even grow on frozen foods. Molds grow in varying conditions, at varying speeds, in every color you can think of.

Not just a disgusting addition to old food, mold can be beneficial in many ways. One of the most common ways mold is used positively is to make antibiotics such as penicillin. In 1928, Alexander Fleming accidentally discovered penicillin when he found mold growing on a discarded petri dish. The mold itself was not the miracle. Fleming discovered that the mold that had grown had killed the Staphylococcus aureus that he'd been growing in that particular petri dish. The rest is history!

Now that you know a little more about bread mold, you can use the ideas below to help you find potential bread mold science fair projects.

Does sodium have an effect on the growth of bread mold?

How and why does mold form on bread?

Is bread mold harmful to the human body if consumed? Why?

What are the optimal conditions for growing bread mold? Why?

Does light have an effect on the growth of bread mold? If so, what kind?

Do certain types of breads mold faster than others?

How to grow bread mold...

Take a cotton swab and collect some dust. Wipe the dust over the bread slices you want to experiment with. Place them in a bag with a few drops of water and seal the bag so the slices don't dry out.

Now you know a little more about bread mold and the types of experiments you can do. You may have an idea of what you would like to try as a project. Simply by asking questions about things that interest you, you can come up with great bread mold science fair projects that can be fun to do!

Doug Nicholson is a nuclear engineering technician, science hobbyist, and amateur inventor. Visit his site =>http://www.science-projects-resources.com for lots more Science Fair Projects ideas and articles.

The Optimum Cichlid Aquarium Set Up

The groups of fishes commonly referred to as Cichlids, comprise a vast group of, generally larger and more aggressive fishes from Africa and South and Central America with a few species being found in Asia. They offer such a large variety of bright colors, shapes and habits that they have become one of the most popular fishes kept by hobbyist's world wide.

Such is the diversity of species, breeding habits and feeding that it becomes necessary to set up different groups of Cichlids in different tanks. Some of these include African Cichlids, American Cichlids, Dwarf Cichlids or Discus. It is usually recommended that you keep these like minded fishes together and don't mix them in general.

Selecting and Positioning Your Tank

Always try to choose a tank with the largest possible surface area and volume as most cichlids grow quite large. Make sure you always have a glass cover to stop your fish jumping out.

Position your new aquarium so that you avoid direct sunlight hitting the aquarium for too long as this can cause excessive algae problems.

Choosing Gravel, Decor and Setting Up

Cichlids are quite territorial and the more holes, refuges and interesting "zones" you can create make for a much harmonized community.

A good starting point is to place in your tank a background that can offer the realism and natural environment that these fish will feel very relaxed and unstressed in. Check out the cichlid mansion range from Aquarium + Reptile Rocks Inc if you want something extraordinary.

Next is the gravel we advise a fine blended gravel as too coarse a gravel size allows uneaten food and waste to accumulate in the pockets between pebbles away from water flow that break it down. There are several varieties to choose from. Clean your gravel in small quantities in a bucket. Three or four rinses should be sufficient. Place the cleaned gravel into your tank along with a little water.

Next to add some more "zones" you can add cleaned rocks and driftwood and position them. Triangulate your decorations to create a greater depth of field and provide an amphitheatre where the fish can congregate in a community setting. Try to slope your gravel slightly towards the rear and sides using rocks and logs to create tiers and depth. The lightweight rocks from A+RR Inc like quartz rocks, north head ridge, barnacle, rock pool and charred wood make this fun and easy to do. When you have the major decorations in place, add a little water, if this is a little dirty from the gravel siphon this dirty water out again into your bucket.

Next fill your tank. Avoid disturbing the gravel by using a plate or newspaper onto which you can direct the water flow. Some coral sand is a good addition to an African tank, while white Rift Lake Sand looks great for Africans also but can show up detritus badly. These aspects will be discussed further later.

Preparing your Tap Water

Next we must treat our tap water to remove harmful chlorine and ammonia. There are several products that will remove both, the best value is Amquel Instant water Detoxifier.

It is also necessary to replace electrolytes like, magnesium, and potassium making in tap water.

The electrolytic aquarium salts are essential to fishes well being. Not only provide an anti-bacterial effect, but help fishes produce body slime to protect themselves from infection and create an essential osmotic barrier so they do not dehydrate. Make sure it is dissolved before adding to your aquarium.

There are also several products we can use to specific water conditions for African and Discus. To calculate water volume: consider 10cm x 10cm x 10cm = 1 liter. So length (cm) x Width (cm) x Height (cm) divided by 1000 = Volume (liters).

Biological Filter Supplementation

The Best way to get crystal clear water is to pro-actively provide bacteria cultures as biological filter supplement. In our opinion WASTE CONTROL and CYCLE used in conjunction with one another or HBH TERMINITE are the best way to enhance your filtration and stay ahead of the game. People using these products simply do not encounter the same problems as people who take a minimalist approach (don't use a filter supplement) and end up constantly reacting to problems. These bacteria cultures help convert all organic wastes to ammonia then further to nitrite and finally to nitrate. To establish your tanks bacteria populations can take several weeks but is accelerated greatly by adding supplements. Do not overstock your new aquarium during this run in period.

Filtration

All good filters provide ample filter media surface areas for the colonization of aerobic (oxygen breathing) denitrifying bacteria which break down fish waste. The greater the volume of the filter and the greater the flow rate, the bigger the population of bacteria to keep your tank clean. This is Biological filtration. All good filters should provide some sponge as Mechanical filtration. Chemical filtration is also important. We always use ammonia remover as a safeguard. Carbon is also beneficial but Purigen is superior. It is rechargeable and will also remove log stains from your tank (That is if you did not use the Charred wood from A+RR Inc). Remember to rinse loose particles out before adding to your filter.

Filter Types

Freshwater Trickle filters offer the most filtration for large seriously stocked tanks.

External Canister filers like the PRIME, EHEIM, FLUVAL or VIA AQUA are the best of the commercially available filters. They offer the largest volume of media and can be concealed from view. All these brands have a simple priming system and excellent taps to isolate water in the tubing while the filter is cleaned.

Hang On styles like the AQUACLEAR and AQUAONE are also very good. They possibly provide the best value if your budget does not permit an external canister. Simple fill the filter box with water and turn on. Water is pumped through the filter and gravity flows back into your tank.

Internal motorized filters like the CRYSTAL , RIO , and EIHEM are popular for smaller tanks or as a secondary filter for extra circulation in a large tank. Internals usually do not interfere with top glass or hoods. These can be placed under one of your lightweight rocks.

Air Operated filtration is often not sufficient for cichlids. We do highly recommend air bubbling in Cichlid tanks. Be sure to use a Check Valve so that water cannot flow back into your pump if power goes off.

If you have a Cichlid Mansions or Amazon background from A+RR Inc you can conceal a lot of the plumbing from view which makes for a very attractive set up.

Water Changing

Although nitrate (residual waste) is relatively harmless, the levels will accumulate and become dangerous if regular partial water changes are not performed to dilute nitrates. Cichlids are large fish that eat a lot, so nitrates accumulate quickly. PH is also pulled dangerously lower by organic waste accumulation. Therefore, no matter how good your filtration is, you still must water change regularly. We recommend a 1/3 - ½ water change fortnightly to keep pH above neutral and nitrates low.

The best tool to assist you with water changes is a Lee's Gravel Vacuum. They allow you to remove the dirtiestwater from around the gravel and replace it with clean, treated tap water. This task is easier to do and a better job done if you have lightweight rocks and décor. We recommend you test pH and nitrate weekly to ensure your water changing maintenance is sufficient to maintain this balance. PH can be maintained using PH UP, but the only easy way to remove nitrate is by water changing.

An important tip when changing. Rinse your filter media in your old aquarium water rather than under a tap as the chlorine in tap water will kill off the precious filter bacteria living in the foam and other media. If you follow these procedures you should never have to completely break your tank down to clean it out.

Heating

If you want to keep Cichlids you will need to heat them. A good guide is approximately 1 watt of heating per liter of water. A higher wattage heater than necessary is often a good choice though because they can be used on larger aquariums. Position your heater in a back corner at a 45 degree angle so that heat does not rise directly onto the thermostat. Make sure that there is good water movement around the heater to ensure that the element is heating. Large cichlids can get quite boisterous, so a heater guard will stop your heater being broken. We believe it necessary to also install a thermostat to check the heater. The stick on types are the best in our opinion as the suction cup type soon do not stick and require replacement.

Lighting

Lighting is necessary to view your fish at night time. To achieve this we find it better to illuminate your tank from afternoon until bed time when people can more easily enjoy their tanks. Lighting left on all day will undoubtedly cause excessive algae problems. For best results with plants we recommend high intensity full spectrum white lighting. We like to use Aquastars, Arcadia 's or Power Glo's.

The African Cichlid Tank

The African Rift lake Cichlids from Lakes Malaqi, Tanganyika and Victoria have become a popular variety of fish for people who desire dramatic color, size and movement in their tanks. African cichlids are quite aggressive and fast moving and should be kept in tanks set up for a community of African cichlids.

Natural Habitat

African Cichlids inhabit the rocky shorelines of the rift lakes of Africa . The water in these lakes is quite hard and alkaline. Large schools of fish graze algae from the rocky outcrop reefs. Amongst the algae live small crustaceans which also constitute part of the diet of African cichlids.

The bottom of the lakes is sandy. Innumerable caves formed between the boulders offer protection to young fish and brooding females. Check out the Cichlid mansion and Amazon range of backgrounds if you want realism and something special. Most species from Lake Malawi are mouth brooders and constitute a large proportion of the species available in the hobby. A lot of the Tanganyikan species form lifetime pair bonds and protect their young, while others are also mouth brooders.

Rift Lake Water Conditioning

To recreate the hard alkaline water required by these fish, shell grit or coral sand should be added to your gravel or used exclusively for the bottom. African Rift lake sand is also becoming popular, but can show up detritus badly. Good quality African Cichlid water conditioners like the Seachem Rift Lake Salt and Buffers are a real advantage in creating the right water conditions.

There are several products that will remove both chlorine and ammonia, but the best value is....Amquel Instant water Detoxifier.

Setting up African Rift Lake Cichlids

As African cichlids come from rocky shoreline areas of the lakes, we suggest that intricate rockwork form the basis of your set-up arranged to form area's with numerous caves. The rockwork should be predominantly built up around the back and sides to leave a communal amphitheatre where all the interaction and displays take place. A+RR Inc has a large range of rocks which are extremely attractive and offer plenty of hiding places. Plants are not essential to your African community tank because African Cichlids, being omnivorous, will eat your plants except for something such as Anubias. One option here is to cut some holes in barnacle rock which allows the greenery to be seen but protects the base in the gravel from the fish. Plastic plants instead make a good addition.

Adding African Rift Lake Cichlids

Try to crowd your African cichlids without taxing your filtration and water change management. This stops individuals from becoming too dominant and harassing others.

We find it best to start with small to medium sizes of fishes of several species in groups of four.

(4 Electric Blue, 4 Electric Yellows, 4 Venustus, 4 Red Empress)

Of the Lake Malawi fishes, the most common species are Zebras, Pindani, Lombardoi and others. People often start with these species as they are cheaper and show color while still young. Many hobbyists progress to the slightly more expensive and spectacular 'Haplochromis' group, like Electric Blues, Red Empress and the Peacocks where only the males exhibit the most amazing color as they mature. In general Take Tanganyika fishes are a bit more expensive and comprise some of the most sought after species like Frontosa, "Lanprologus" and Trheus.

Feeding Africans

Feeding African Cichlids the right type of foods is very important. African Cichlids have extremely long intestinal tracts, like omnivores, which means that foods (meat, worms etc.) will take a long time to digest. Inappropriate foods will rot in their stomachs causing bloating, sickness and sometimes death. For this reason foods with a large proportion of spirulina and vegetables are best. Our favourites, HBH VEGE or Cichlid Flakes and Pellets are perfect. Super Bits are also eagerly taken but we do not like to feed Super Bits exclusively, but rather combined with Spirulina based foods. Frozen bloodworm and brine shrimp are also good for most species, but meats and live blackworm are definitely no-no's.

The American Cichlid Tank

American Cichlids are larger growing and slower moving than their African cousins. They are also far more predatory and are happy with a higher protein than Africans. For these reasons we do not recommend keeping American and African Cichlids together. Of course there is always the odd exception.

Natural Habitat

The natural habitat of the Central and South American cichlids is quite different to that of Africans. Logs and branches in general replace rocky outcrops still having a background that can provide safe secure retreats are important. We feel darker gravel such as the Red Gravel blend suits the reflective colors of Americans, compared to lighter substrates spawners who will form a pair bond. Spawns can produce hundreds of fry, the parents will try to protect and nurture their babies instinctively. It is not uncommon for pairs of fish to spawn in the community tank, although it is unlikely that the parents will be able to protect babies from the hordes. Most American cichlids have also been in the hobby for a lot longer than Africans. Species like Oscars and Red Devils have become household names.

Water Conditioning

American Cichlids are quite tolerant of water conditions, but a pH close to neutral and low nitrates (regular water changes) provide a comfortable environment. Always treat new tap water well with XXXXXX and XXXXX as with all fish.

Setting Up for American Cichlids

Use plenty of logs. Submerge some rocks into the substrate and add more structure on top... Do not be concerned by excessive color from new logs as this will become less with regular water changing. You could use charred wood from A+RR Inc here as well. Plastic plants attached to small crevice rock will provide a splash of color. Of course you can use one of the Amazon or Cichlid mansion backgrounds that will create a stunning base for you to expand on.

Adding American Cichlids

Try to set up a large variety of young fish to grow up together. That way you will have far more compatible large fish when they grow up. Our favourite species are Oscars, Red Devils, Texas , Firemouths, Severums etc. Give them plenty of room to grow. Often people will ask, "What can I put with my large Oscar who has lived alone for a year?" if you put another single fish in, there is every chance that the new inhabitant will be killed. We advised it is better to trade in large fish and start with a community of smaller Americans.

Feeding Americans

American cichlids will consume a large variety of foods. HBH make a range of American specific cichlid foods. Advance the size of the pellets as your young fish grow. A wide variety of frozen foods are recommended in conjunction with live foods including feeder fish. Only offer feeder fish as a treat, otherwise they will become fussy about accepting prepared foods.

Dwarf Cichlids

The most popular dwarf cichlids are the Apistogrammas and Microgeophagus (Rams) from South America and the Pelvicachromis (Kribensis) from the Congo River system of Africa . These dwarf cichlids are popular community fish that may spawn in a community tank and exercise parental care over their young if there is enough cover. They prefer a good varied diet of prepared frozen and live foods.

Discus

Discuses are a popular group of cichlids kept by enthusiasts all over the world. Many claim Discus are the "King of Fishes". Discus are definitely a fish that require some experience, although they may be kept in a community tank. The major requirement to keeping Discus well is good water management and the best foods. Discuses seem to metabolize quickly and need to be fed often with high quality prepared and frozen foods. The best are Tetra Bits with daily frozen food like Beef Heart and Liver and Discus Dinner. Once Discus are feeding well they are competitive and hardy.

Discus are usually happy in low nitrate water with pH slightly acidic and soft water which is very warm 29-32 Degrees Celsius. For breeding Discus, the fish need to be well conditioned on the best foods. The best range of water conditioners for Discus are the Seachem range of Discus Buffers.

The major problem with Discus is their susceptibility to parasites like gill flakes as well as intestinal worms and flagellates. We advise regular treatments for parasites with General Cure or Worm-Rid, especially after Discus are newly purchased or moved. Intestinal worms are best treated with Worm-Rid and flagellates with Octozin. An inexpensive, yet very good book is the Barron's Discus Fishes.

Enjoy setting up your tank and we love receiving your pictures of the products from A+RR Inc (Aquarium + Reptile Rocks Inc).

Hope you found this article informative and enjoy setting up your aquarium.If you are after something truly unique for your aquarium you should check out the range of lightweight artificial feature rocks ,backgrounds and tank inserts from Aquarium + Reptile Rocks Inc. http://www.aquariumrocks.biz

Common New Born Puppy Health Problems and Diseases

Most newborn puppies are very weak and are vulnerable to health problems. Prevention is always better than cure as recommended; to prevent the opportunity of infections or other health problems, basic to intermediate knowledge about caring for your new born puppy is very important.

Here are some of the few common puppy health problems and diseases that a weak puppy might be susceptible to.

Hypothermia:

Hypothermia is one of the major problems. A tiny new born puppy has difficulty regulating it's body temperature as it's thermoregulatory system may not be fully developed yet. One common solution is to keep a new born puppy in a moderate heated environment of 85-90F degrees for the first two to three weeks.

How can you do that? Simple, use a heated Dog lamp or warming lamp. Also, it is a good practice to use warm bottles (not hot as they might be dangerous) and a puppy warming blanket. Use hypoallergenic cotton blankets as an alternative because they retain some body heat.

Parvovirus:

This is a common diseases for a young puppy and a Dog. As a Dog owner, ensure that your puppy is adequately protected against the deadly Parvovirus disease. Parvovirus is a contagious disease that attacks the lining of the dog or puppy's digestive system. It is usually spread through feces of another infected dog. Parvo can also be carried on kennels, crates and accessories of another dog.

Symptoms include lack of appetite, vomiting, diarrhea, weariness and putrid smelling dog stool. These symptoms have also been linked to high fever which could lead to congestive heart failure.

Make sure that your puppies are vaccinated under a proper program and a health time table. Veterinarians recommend that infected puppies should not be taken to the dog park or even the yard where they can interact with other dogs, until the proper vaccination and injections are administered.

Colostrum:

This is an anti-body that can be given to your new born puppy at approximately 24 hours after birth.

How? Simple, by feeding your puppy the full-bodied first milk of it's mother. This step if available, is critical to your puppy's health and health problems prevention.

If you are concerned about your new born puppy' slower absorption rate; it is quite common, visit your local vet for a consultation about their Colustum's absorption rate. Your vet will usually do a blood test to check your puppy's anti-body absorption rate and if needed, your vet will then proceed to inject some serum from it's mother to speed up the process.

This is Jeremy C.W and thank you for reading. I hope you have found this article useful. Visit dogsnpuppies.com for more articles and tips about puppy health [http://dognpuppies.com/Puppy-Health/index.html], puppy care [http://dognpuppies.com/Puppy-Care/index.html] and everything about dogs.

How Do I Care For A Pregnant Labrador Retriever?

Us Labrador Retrievers do require a lot of care, even more so if you have the wonderful opportunity to care for a mother-to-be of Labrador Retriever puppies! However, it's very important not to forget that caring for a pregnant Labrador Retriever is a huge responsibility, since you are responsible for the well-being of the unborn puppies as well. A Labrador Retriever will be very appreciative of your care, and we will do much better if you research the best care methods. If you learn about how to care for a pregnant Labrador Retriever, you will be able to dramatically improve the quality of life for her future puppy litter.

Female Labrador Retrievers are very similar to human females, as they will give many key signs that signal they are pregnant. Your Labrador Retriever may seem listless, and she might not show as much enthusiasm at mealtimes. Decreased appetite is a common sign that a female Labrador is experiencing the early stages of her pregnancy. Of course, this will make you worry, so it should be a good opportunity to visit the veterinarian! This is the equivalent of "morning sickness" in a pregnant female Dog, and normally will disappear some time after the first trimester. During this time, it is highly recommended to start giving your pregnant Labrador Retriever some prenatal vitamins.

Swelling of the tummy is another key sign that your female Labrador is pregnant. This seems like a fairly obvious sign, but many people mistake it for their Dog becoming overweight. During this time, some Dog owners even stop feeding their female Labradors their normal food, or begin a weight loss program. This can harm the unborn puppies! Even if your female Labrador Retriever has been spayed, it's still possible for her to become pregnant. The spaying operation is usually very successful, but should not be assumed to protect your Dog 100% against pregnancy. If your female Labrador Retriever is beginning to become a bit chubby around the middle, be sure to take her to the veterinarian first, before making any assumptions of whether or not she is pregnant.

During the second and third trimester of your Labrador's pregnancy, she may begin to engage in a behavior commonly known as "nesting". This is the same type of behavior that some human mothers experience before giving birth. With this behavior, your female Labrador Retriever may begin to constantly rearrange or paw at her bedding. She may also carry some of her favorite toys or treats over to her bed area. It's best to let her alone when she does this, as she is simply preparing her sleeping area for giving birth to her puppies. Most female Labradors will display nesting behavior soon before giving birth.

When you have confirmed your female Labrador Retriever's pregnancy with your veterinarian, there are many important prenatal care steps that should be followed. Since your Labrador is now also supplying nutrients for her unborn puppies, it's highly recommended to start giving her a prenatal vitamin. Try to give her the best prenatal vitamin that you can find, since cheap or poorly formulated prenatal vitamins can actually be deficient in important vitamins needed by your dog and her puppies. A good prenatal vitamin can be purchased online, from a pet supply store, or prescribed by your veterinarian.

After your female Labrador Retriever has gotten over her "morning sickness" of the first trimester, she'll begin to eat... a LOT! The average pregnant female Labrador will consume from two to three times her normal food amount. It's much better to divide her meals throughout the day, to ensure the maximum absorption of the nutrients found in the food. At this time, it is also wise to switch to a premium high-nutrient dog food, of the best quality that you can comfortably afford. Remember, your female Labrador is supplying nutrients for the proper development of her puppies, and it's your job to help her get all of the nutrition she needs.

Since Labrador Retrievers are very affectionate, we will need additional attention when going through a situation such as pregnancy. Try to keep your female Labrador as comfortable as possible, and don't forget to schedule regular check-ups during her pregnancy with your veterinarian.

This article was brought to you by Sean Green, at Pet Care.
For more information on Dog Pet Care please visit our website!

Tips For How to Take Care of a Sick Guinea Pig

If your guinea pig is ill there are certain steps you will want to take in order to ensure quick recovery. In addition to providing proper care, the real key in aiding piggy recovery is consistently monitoring their condition. The sooner you notice a worsening of symptoms or a failure to thrive, the faster you can get help for your pet before the condition becomes life threatening.

Remember, the advice below is supplemental for people who have already taken their guinea pigs to see a veterinarian. Do not attempt to self treat any serious condition without help from an expert.

Supplies You Will Need:

• Digital kitchen or postal scale


• Towels


• Hot water bottle or Thermacare wraps - Can be found at your local drugstore. Thermacare wraps are used for the relief of pain and muscle aches. The wrap will produce heat for up to eight hours when exposed to air. Keep in mind the contents of this product are not meant to be eaten so supervise pets and children.


• Food pellets for sick guineas pigs (like Oxbow Critical Care) - Available through veterinarians. Avoid low fiber foods at these times as this can increase digestive discomfort and bloating.


• Small syringe without needle for feeding food and water


• Probiotics (if your piggy is on antibiotics) - Can be found in gel capsule form at health food stores. Remember, guinea pigs should not consume animal products so do not substitute yogurt.

Step 1: Move to a Separate Cage

A sick guinea pig will benefit from space from rowdy cage mates. It will also make it easier for you to monitor their condition and determine exactly how much they are eating.

Step 2: Weight Your Guinea Pig

This is important for two reasons - one, it will help you track whether they are losing, gaining, or maintaining weight. If your guinea pig appears to still be healthy enough to eat on his or her own but over the course of a couple days starts to lose weight, this is an indicator that supplemental hand feeding is needed. Two, you will use the weight of your pet to calculate how much food they should be eating. This is especially useful if you are going to be hand feeding as it is always difficult to tell if your piggy is getting enough food.

Step 3: Monitor Urine and Stool Output

Consider keeping your sick guinea pig on folded towels instead of their standard bedding. This may be more comfortable for them AND it makes it easier for you to see if they are passing waste normally. A lack of urine or stool output can be an indication of further health problems or dehydration.

Step 4: Keep Them Warm

Extra warmth can really be helpful for guinea pigs that are not feeling well. Using a warm water bottle wrapped in a towel will work quite well just be sure not to put scalding water in and replace when the temperature cools. A self heating pad will also work well provided you don't have any problems with your pet trying to chew on it (not too likely if he or she is sick.)

Step 5: Prepare the Food

If your guinea pig is not eating on his or her own, you will want to prepare a pellet mash. All you need in order to do this is to soak the pellets in liquid until they become soft and you can mash them into a soft paste. Some piggies also enjoy the mixture if warmed slightly (be sure to test on the inside of your wrist.) If you do not have the time to soak the pellets until they are soft, you can grind them using a food processor or coffee grinder and then mix with water. Some people also like to add baby food or juice for extra nutrition or flavor. Another alternative is to use the existing fresh foods you had on hand already and cooking them until soft and then blending into a paste. The key when making the hand feeding paste is to keep the mix on the thicker side as liquid is easier to accidentally inhale. Try one part water to four parts feed and see how that works.

Step 6: Feeding

Take the small syringe you purchased and remove the end if it is super small as you will need food to be able to pass through. Be sure to sand off any rough edges.T ry to hold your guinea pig in a vertical position. You may find it easier to wrap them up in a cloth first for better grip. Fill the syringe with your mix and gently insert into your piggy's mouth. Push until you feel the back teeth. Now gently push a little food into his or her mouth and see if your guinea pig reacts by chewing a little. This is a good sign. Wait for the chewing to stop and then feed a little more. Continue until food is gone. Follow up with water as well. Add vitamin C supplements if you think they are needed. Be sure to keep regular solid food available in the cage as well as you want your pet to go back to a regular routine of self feeding as soon as possible.

Optional Step: Probiotics

If you piggy is on a course of antibiotics, supplemental probiotics could aid digestion. Try adding a little probiotic powder to your guinea pigs food or water a couple hours after each dose of medication.

Heather is a guinea pig expert. For more information on how to take care of a guinea pig visit the Guinea Pig Resource Center for more information and don't forget to sign up for Heather's free newsletter!

How to Read Body Language - Top 10 Tips

Interested in learning how to read body language? Would you like to be able to tell when people are lying and understand people's intentions? This article will provide you with the top 10 tips for reading body language.

I feel Body Language is the most important language you can learn. It bypasses the verbal communication barriers and gives you an insight into what others might be thinking, or what actions they are likely to take.

Remember that the art of being able to read body language is to be able to look at some one, pick up the signals, and at the same time not let on to that person you are doing this. If you do the person will become uncomfortable.

Tip 1. - Eyes

Dilated pupils - the person is interested in the topic.

People say that the eyes are the windows to the soul. They can tell so much information about the person if you know what you are looking for. As in most situations, the same signal can be interpreted in a different way. It depends entirely on the circumstances at hand. The example above could also mean that the person is on drugs, or it could mean that they are focused.

Tip 2. - Hands

Open palm.- the person is relaxed and comfortable.

The hands have many expressions and are a good place to start when learning how to read body language. Generally when some ones hands are open it means that their defenses are relaxed.

Tip 3 - Mimicking

When you are talking to someone, if they are mimicking your body position and action it means that they are comfortable in the situation and most likely interested by you and what you are saying.

Tip 4 - Eyes

If someone's eyes are gazing to the side it is a trait that they are feeling guilty. Likewise if they are gazing down this express's shame. Remember the eyes have so many meanings and it's easy to make the wrong evaluation. Practice makes perfect.

Tip 5 - Arms

The main two expressions with arms is that they are either closed (folded) or open. When folded the person is possibly angry or disapproving. When their arms are open the person is in an honest position and is accepting of the situation.

Tip 6 - Rubbing of the Chin

If someone is rubbing their chin it generally means that they are thinking.

Tip 7 - Feet

When you are in conversation with someone you can tell if they are comfortable and interested by what you are saying by their feet position. When standing opposite one another the other persons feet are facing in your direction. This means that they are comfortable and their head and eyes will also be focused on you.

When standing opposite someone their feet are pointing away and their head and eyes are not focused on you. They will most likely be nodding and agreeing with a fake smile. This means that the person n question is not interested and might even feel uncomfortable in the situation.

Tip 8 - Legs

When stood up Legs are a good indicator of how confident someone is. If someone is standing with their legs shoulder width apart they are relaxed. If they are standing with a stance wider than that they are a confident and are in a grounded position to show they are in control.

When stood up with legs crossed the person is probably shy.

When sitting down if the legs are crossed it shows the person is in protective mode. This is very much used alongside crossed arm action.

If the legs are open when the person is seated then they are in a relaxed position. The same as when standing.

Tip 9 - Fingers

Fingers can create many gestures and are great for reading body language. A pointing finger can either be someone pointing to a item or place, it can also indicate anger. If someone is curling their fingers tightly they are usually pleading for some thing.

Drumming or tapping with the fingers indicates frustration. The faster the beating, the greater the frustration and tension inside the person.

Tip 10 - Eyebrows

The eyebrows have many uses. Listed below are some examples. When the eye brows are raised, normally the person is shocked or surprised. The greater the surprise the more raised they will be. When someone flicks their eye brow up and down quickly they are greeting someone else or are showing they have acknowledged them.

I hope you have enjoyed learning how to read body language tips. Remember reading body language is not a skill that can be learned over night. The more you practice the easier it will become and the more subtle you will be able to do it.

Neal Hendes has a passion for body language. He loves to encourage people to become more developed in reading body language and has an online blog How To Read Body Language which you can visit to find out more information on the subject.

What is Lipoma in Dogs - Small Fatty Dog Tumors, No Stress

Many Dogs get small fatty tumors, and they appear as easily as your Dog finds a chew toy. This is apparently akin to us finding a gray hair when we were not looking, it just happens.

There is no Dog that is immune to any type of lipoma, which is known as a small fatty tumor that is benign and unsightly. From time to time, they can be known to rarely cause problems for your Dog.

A lipoma in dogs is simply a soft and most of the time non-painful mass located directly under the skin. True lipomas are never cancerous, but there are some malignant variations called liposarcomas and infiltrative lipomas that are invasive. Over ninety-eight percent of the time these lipomas will not be a cause of worry for you as an owner. It is safe to say that a lipoma in dogs is not something a dog owner should be overly worried about.

Normally lipomas in dogs will appear just about anywhere on a dog's body, but are often found in the legs or on the abdominal area. Sizes for these tumors range from quarter sized to baseball sized. If let go for a period of time, some can reach the size of a basketball, but it is hard to think that an owner would allow this to go on for this long period of time.

Dogs are not just burdened with one, there can be many at a time, and these lipomas don't care what breed or sex your dog may be. But many senior dogs tend to be prone to them more than younger pups are, but these tumors are not picky.

Since they don't really cause any trouble, you should still see your vet. There is be a test that involves your dog's tumor to have a needle inserted into it to make sure it is indeed benign. Then you can talk over with the vet if removal is an option.

Your vet will help you decide if the lipoma tumor should be removed, but normally is not done unless it causes any pain or makes it hard for your dog to move. The common area for a painful tumor is the armpit area next to the chest. In this spot, it would be hard for your dog to walk depending on the size and breed. Others recommend removal if the size was quite big and in a place where actual incisions were be required.

Since some lipomas are removed to simply make the dog look better, most vets only suggest removal otherwise. The fact of anesthesia makes your dog take risks that should really only be experienced if required.

As far as prevention, there is none known, some dogs are just simply prone to tumors. Just keep an eye on your dog and any new lumps that may occur should be checked.

The tumors to really look closely at are the ones that grow fast and look permanently fixed and never moving. These can be liposarcomas, and would be required to be removed and followed up with radiation. If there is no radiation afterwards, the cancer could spread to other areas of the body through the bloodstream.

Infiltrative lipomas have a 'root' type of system that will take root into deeper areas of the body like muscles. This is hard to remove because of the 'root system'. Both types of tumors need radiation, and in rare instances, requirement of amputation to rid the body of the cancer is seen.

Amputation may be hard to deal with, but it is your job to make sure that your pet is healthy regardless of your comfort level from missing a limb. Animals do not react as humans do, to loss of a limb. They simply move on and find ways to get used to no longer having it, with no tears or regrets. We could all learn a little from watching our pets.

With lipomas and cancer being a part of your dog's life, you can always keep a healthy eye on your dog's body. When petting your friend, use your hands to feel for bumps or new lumpy areas. Anytime you find something new, it is nothing to be ashamed of to call the vet and at least ask for them to check it for you.

Keep track of sizes of any lumps you may find by using a piece of paper over the lump and try to trace over it. You can use this later when you check the lump for size again.

Again, dog cancer or lipomas are normally nothing to worry about, but you should see a vet and ask them exactly what to look for. You can get guidelines for your breed to look for when you are doubting yourself, and just let your vet know of any changes. You care for your dog and want him or her to be around for awhile, just for the peace of mind you should take proper care of them.

Janet Markowitz has been a German Shepherd Breeder for over 20 years. She has always been interested in using natural and holistic remedies for her Shepherds whenever possible. She has found that by using natural Remedies in conjunction with conventional medicine, she has achieved great success in the health and longevity in her dogs.

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