Wednesday, February 29, 2012

Keeping a Pet - The Pros and Cons

Pets are loved by everyone for many reasons; no matter what breed of animal you own, they can bring happiness to lives. However, when you are thinking of getting a pet for the first time, whether it's as a new addition to your current family of pets or a replacement for one that sadly is no longer amongst you, there is a lot to consider when keeping a pet.

People have pets for various reasons, whether given as a present (remember, they are not just for Christmas!) or perhaps the children are interested in having their first pet; or you were perhaps unable to have a pet as a child but are in more suitable circumstances or simply because you and they share a love for animals, the notion to need and want a pet is deep-rooted in our psyche. This is perhaps not surprising considering pets act as great companions, providing company for people from all walks of life.

Pets can provide excellent social opportunities for both adults and children, with the ability to improve your exercise routine, depending on the type of pet you own. They also provide opportunities to meet new people and begin new hobbies, should you have a pet you can walk around the park or enter competitions with. In that respect, some pets are easier to look after than others, and depending on your circumstances, such as type of accommodation and location you live in, this could be an important factor as not all rented accommodation allows pets; so the type of pet you choose to have may also relate to your situation.

Although pets can bring lots of happiness to lives, it also not too surprising to discover how much responsibility they are to keep, as in some respects they are not too dissimilar to looking after a child in that they have needs to consider too. If you are planning to go on holiday and it is not feasible to take your pet with you, it is always a good idea to find someone suitable to look after your pet. This may not always be an ideal situation, expecting others to look after your pet, whilst kennels can be a costly option should your pet be a Dog.

There are further factors to take into consideration when deciding to keep a pet, with probably the most popular deciding factor for many being cost. They are expensive, particularly given the expense of purchasing food, and also those accessories to allow them to have an enjoyable level of living, these including shelter and toys to keep them entertained.

When deciding to keep an animal, pet insurance can help reduce any stress surrounding potential veterinary expenses, having the ability to cover your pet's health through insurance, whilst also attending to any specific needs they require such as ongoing treatments and medication.

Despite there being many pros and cons to consider with keeping a pet, the levels of enjoyment and companionship afforded by pets are often worth every penny we lavish on them. After all, money can't buy you love and pets give it freely.




Isla Campbell writes for a digital marketing agency. This article has been commissioned by a client of said agency. This article is not designed to promote, but should be considered professional content.

Monday, February 27, 2012

When a Puppy is Full Grown

Four legs, a wet nose and eyes that could melt steel. When a puppy captures your heart, it's the beginning of a long and wonderful friendship. One that evolves over time and is bound to take a number of unexpected turns. However, one thing that will come as NO surprise is the time when a puppy is full grown.

A YEAR OF DISCOVERY

Many animal experts estimate that it takes about a year for puppies to reach full maturity. During that first year, owner and Dog will share a fascinating learning curve. One complete with boundaries, special language and personality quirks. And sometimes it's hard to tell who has more to learn.

For first time Dog owners, the training process can be comedy of errors and a seemingly endless exercise in futility. But, depending on the intelligence of the Dog and the diligence of the master, success should come shortly. Both, however, should be prepared for those moments that will test the limits of their patience.

Certain breeds need a firmer hand, a gentler tone or a devious mind to show them who's boss. It's your job as human to decide which will work best for your pup. While there are no absolutes, pedigreed Dogs often conform to predictable standards.

Jack Russell Terriers can usually be counted on to be balls of inexhaustible energy even when puppy full grown. Golden Retrievers are known for their temperance, Border Collies their intelligence and Norwich Terriers for the their willfulness. Each trait, when properly matched with their owner's, will help forge an unbreakable bond.

ADULTHOOD & BEYOND

That bond will enjoy a honeymoon, of sorts, during the puppy phase. Cuteness will often outweigh the occasional accident on the rug or chewed up shoe. But, adulthood will bring a new set of challenges. One of the worst mistakes an owner can make is to assume that fully grown dogs have completed their learning process. Often, adult dogs require an even greater degree of attention. During its formative year, a puppy's education has specific goals, but when puppy full grown, providing enriching interaction requires more creativity.

It's no longer enough to reward good behavior with a treat or a toy. Dogs need new skills to master, and reinforcing previously learned skills will bore them.

Owners should try to provide their pets with new experiences on a regular basis. Since most dogs love cars, take them for rides with the windows down, so they can feel the wind and bark at strangers or other cars.

Dog parks and beaches give them the chance to roam freely while building their socialization skills with other breeds. However, until you know how they'll react to other dogs, keep them on a leash for their own protection.

Still, no matter what new horizons are presented, the most important interaction a dog will ever have is with its family. And from those first days through when puppy full grown, it's a relationship that will fill a heart with love and soul with joy.




Lucy Bushman is an accomplished niche website developer and author.

To learn more about full grown puppies [http://trainingmypuppyonline.info/when-puppy-full-grown], please visit Training My Puppy Online [http://trainingmypuppyonline.info] for current articles and discussions.

Saturday, February 25, 2012

How Much Do Bunnies Cost?

People wonder how much does a cute, cuddly bunny rabbit cost these days.

I would love to have a bunny. Many people do. If I ask you now, would you like to have a bunny?

The answer may be a yes or a no, but the fact is most people care about bunnies even if they don't want to have one as a pet, not just because it's cute, but because a bunny is not just a pet. It is also a friend that requires attention and the right kind of care.

There are many kinds of bunnies. But as a whole, they are considered cheaper pets than cats and Dogs. Bunnies are easily potty-trained, as long as they have their litter box.

How much do bunnies really cost?

Prices depend on the size for rabbits differ in shapes according to their breed. The different types of rabbits that are used as pets include Lops or the droopy-eared bunnies, Dwarfs, and Mini Rexs. Rates range from $15-$60, depending also on distinct marks and unusual colors.

Above mentioned rate is a one-time cost when buying a bunny rabbit. One is lucky if they came across a free one. Monthly fees for your pet include costs for food, cage, litter box, grooming and animal care items, a regular visit to the veterinarian, some toys, and some even provide a bed for their hairy pets. To look for free ones, you can always check out local adoption agencies, as well as ads in your local hometown newspaper.

An estimated $20-60 dollars a month would suffice, more if you happen to purchase a bunny rabbit that has a sensitive stomach for food. They require a specific diet. Also, of all the recurring costs in having a pet bunny rabbit, food takes up most of the expenses, for our little, hopping mammals need continuous access to food.

I want to try having a bunny rabbit for a change. Looking after them will take some getting used to, for I am used to taking care of Dogs and cats for pets. Rabbits are curious by nature, so if you have a not-so patient nature, this is not the pet for you.

Enjoy new experiences and get a new pet. Get a bunny rabbit now. While the prices of a rabbit are just the beginning, be sure to include many other factors as well to ensure that you can afford one in the long haul.




Want to know how much do rabbits cost? Find out what other people are paying for their bunny at HowMuchIsIt.

Friday, February 24, 2012

Syrian vs. Dwarf Hamsters, What Should I Get For My Family?

As pets go hamsters are fairly easy to take care of. Hamsters require no walking, are not particularly dirty or stinky, they are small and don't take up much space and are generally inexpensive. Hamsters are also fairly hearty animals and can be a very good pet for a child or a family with several children. There are however, two distinct choices when it comes to adopting a hamster for your family, and that is the dwarf hamster and the syrian hamster. I spoke with Ken Brocx, the founder of Hamsterific.com, an authoritative hamster and small pet website about this question and what his recommendations would be to someone considering adopting a hamster but not knowing exactly which route is best for his/her family.

Andy Markison:

Thanks Ken for taking the time to speak to us. First of all, let's assume a family
with a young child or children (let's assume around seven or eight years of age for
this example) is considering adopting a hamster or hamsters for their home. Would
you personally recommend either a dwarf hamster or a syrian hamster in this case?

Ken Brocx:

Typically I would recommend a syrian hamster for younger children. Dwarf hamsters
are smaller which can make them harder to handle. Also, if a dwarf manages to
get loose they are faster than syrians and thus harder to catch. Syrians tend to be
more docile if they are properly raised.

AM:

Syrian hamsters are supposed to be solitary once they are weaned, but that's not the
case with dwarf hamsters is it?

KB:

No. Most dwarf hamsters prefer some company, but that means more space. That
can be a problem since many commercial cages are too small for more than one
hamster, even a dwarf hamster.

AM:

Is there any reason to purchase a dwarf hamster solitarily? Or would it be better to
adopt two dwarfs rather than one?

KB:

In the wild dwarf hamsters live in colonies, so I prefer to keep them that way. A
dwarf hamster on it's own will need a lot of attention to keep it from
getting depressed.

AM:

If you initially purchase a dwarf hamster and later wish to introduce a second (or
third) dwarf hamster would that be possible or are you asking for conflicts with such
an introduction?

KB:

It depends on the particular dwarf hamster and on how long they have been alone. If
a dwarf hamster has been on it's own for more than a month I find it is very difficult
to introduce a new cagemate. Young dwarf hamsters will accept a new hamster
much more readilly than an older dwarf hamster. Also dwarf hamsters tend to
socialize better with siblings than with strange or unfamiliar hamsters.

AM:

Are dwarf hamsters generally less hearty creatures than syrians?

KB:

Both dwarf and syrian hamsters are very hardy creatures. Dwarf hamsters have been
domesticated for a much shorter time than syrians, and because of that there has
been less of an opportunity for them to become inbred. Inbreeding can cause many
problems with the health of any breed of hamster. In syrians this often results in a
hamster that is difficult to tame. In dwarf hamsters it is very common to see
diabetes in inbred pups.

AM:

What kind of equipment would you recommend someone about to adopt a hamster
get for their hamster's new home?

KB:

Hamsters need a constant supply of clean water, a food bowl that's heavy enough
that it won't tip over when a hamster is crawling on it, a wheel for exercise and a
"nest" where they can feel secure. Wheels aren't just toys. A hamster in the wild can
run several miles a night marking it's territory and looking for food and the only way
we can duplicate that in a confined space is a wheel. In the wild hamsters live in
burrows underground. For nesting a hamster needs a place where it feels it can
retreat from danger. A hamster without a nest will feel insecure and nervous.

AM:

What are the life spans of dwarfs and syrian hamsters?

KB:

Dwarfs usually live 2-4 years depending on breed, living conditions and genetic
disposition. Syrians live about 2-3 years.

AM:

What would you suggest someone look for when purchasing or adopting a hamster?

KB:

The most important things are the hamsters health and personality. The color, long
hair and pretty eyes won't matter much if you have a sick hamster. Look for clean
and dry fur, especially around the butt of the hamster, stressed hamsters can get
Wet Tail, which is a deadly type of diarrhea. Wet Tail can spread to surrounding
cages and it can be very difficult to sterilize an area after an outbreak. Personality is
very important, too. If you pick an outgoing hamster that doesn't mind being held
you're probably going to have a much easier time taming and making friends with
him or her.

AM:

Is there a reason to adopt a hamster(s) from a breeder rather than a pet store?

KB:

Professional breeders usually take great care in ensuring their hamsters are not
inbred. Inbreeding can result in many health and personality problems. Many pet
stores buy from these same breeders, although some may just let their hamsters
breed in the store leading to rampant inbreeding and hamsters with poor health.
Also, just because a person has lots of hamsters and sells them does not mean they
are a quality professional breeder. Don't forget to check your local shelters, too.
Animal shelters often have hamsters that need good homes.

AM:

Is the diet of the syrian significantly different than that of a dwarf? I know, for
example, that giving dwarf hamsters fruit that may be high in sugar could be
problematic because dwarfs may be more likely to become diabetic.

KB:

Other than that, syrians and dwarfs have similar diets.

AM:

What is "heat" exactly? It's related to nuts in some way isn't it or is it related to other
types of foods as well? And does "heat" affect a syrian and dwarf the same way?

KB:

Well, there are two types of "heat". "Heat" can be the term for when a female
hamster comes into season, but you are talking about the condition that affects
hamsters that eat too many fatty foods. That type of "heat" is usually caused by an
owner who wants to feed their hamster a treat, usually sunflower seeds, and goes
overboard. Too much oil, like that in sunflower seeds, can cause a hamster's
metabolism to speed up and cause them to lose hair. That's "heat" and I've only
seen it in dwarf hamsters.

AM:

Any last words, warnings, recommendations or other thoughts in general that you'd
like to share with someone who is interested in adopting a hamster?

KB:

Health and personality are the most important things in buying a new hamster, buy
the biggest home for your hamster you can, never put two syrian hamsters
together, and play with your hamster as often as you can!

Interview with Ken Brocx, founder of Hamsterific.com an authoritative website on hamsters
and other small pets.




Andy Markison is an illustrator, graphic designer, animal lover and pet owner living in Germany. His website, http://www.zapgraphix.com/, sells fun and humorous pet related merchandise.

Wednesday, February 22, 2012

Flea Bites

Amongst all insect bites, flea bites are the most common experienced by humans and their pets. These can be treated with creams, but better yet, you can prevent them by keeping your pets and house clean!

Humans can be bitten by variety of fleas, like human, Dog or cat fleas. Fleas are blood-sucking parasites, and often cause annoyance by hovering and attacking you with their little proboscis. But often you will only realize the extent of this attack when your skin shows the result of that little bite with little clusters of itchy skin bumps and a central bite mark. Fleas usually reside and lay their eggs in dusty areas and cracks, animals bedding, and rugs, or even on animals. They generally stay close to the ground and can jump two feet high! As a result, flea bites are mostly found on the leg areas of the host's body.

Usually these itchy flea bites improve in few days by themselves. But we can always speed up the healing by applying steroid lotion or cream on the affected area. The scars left by these fleas take time to go as there is not effective treatment for fading them.

As the saying goes, prevention is better than cure, so it is very important to stop these fleas from breeding at all the stages. Pets are usually the first target, so it is necessary to properly clean and shampoo them regularly. These shampoos contain pesticides, which helps to kill and prevent the fleas from breeding. Also, it is recommended to spray animal areas with an insect growth regulator. The thorough cleaning of the indoor and the outdoor of your homes, in all the nooks and corners, with a vacuum, or any other technique, will help keep you free from the fleas and their bites.




Fleas provides detailed information about fleas defined, cat fleas, dog fleas, flea bites and more. Fleas is the sister site of Pitbulls Info.

Monday, February 20, 2012

Writing a Pet Obituary

Today, there are so many different ways available to memorialize your pet. From pet grave markers to elaborate memorial services, pet owners have finally stopped apologizing for their grief and finally taken steps to remember their pets in the way they see fit. One of the ways to express your love and grief for your pet is through writing a pet obituary.

Some local newspapers will publish these obituaries, but if not, there are some online pet memorial sites devoted entirely to topic, designed to help write and publish an obit for your pet. Writing an obituary for your animal companion can be difficult, particularly if you are overwhelmed with grief over your pet loss. However, most writing is therapeutic, so the process can be somewhat healing and cleansing, helping you to come to terms with your grief and your overall loss.

To write the obituary for your pet memorial, you can either sit down with a template and fill in the blanks or just start writing. While traditional obits require a format of some sort, most sites just want a heartfelt write up of how your pet affected your life and what they meant to you. You can pour your heart out about the good times you shared and maybe even cite two or three of your favorite memories. The obituary shouldn't be more than 1,000 words, just to ensure that you don't expend too much energy on such a long document that may not be read or fully appreciated because of its length.

You want to include core information in your online pet memorial obits, such as the name of your pet, what kind of pet they were (if it isn't obvious), their breed, age and then some information personality traits and/or quirks. This is the best part of any obituary, be it for a human or animal. This is where you learn about the type of pet they were and how they interacted within the confines of your family. Moreover, this is where you get to tell the world what an amazing pet you had and how thankful you are for their presence in your life.

You might also opt to publish a few photos of your pet alongside the obituary to add a uniquely personal touch, though if the obituary costs any money to be published, this might be an extra charge. You can also use the pet obituary as a way to announce a pet memorial service. If this is the case, you might mention the name of your pet grave marker so that friends and family may visit the spot in which your pet is buried. Or if you chose to instead have your pet cremated and placed into a pet urn, you can instead invite loved ones to share their memories of your pet with you via email or letters or even a friendly phone call.

There are many ways to remember the life of your pet through various forms of pet memorials. Writing an obituary is but one way to express the genuine love and affection you had for your pet and to let the world know how much they will be missed.




Colleen Mihelich
Owner, Peternity...honoring your pet for eternity
http://www.peternity.com
colleen@peternity.com
877-PET-PEACE

Saturday, February 18, 2012

Dog Bite Treatment

Dog bites can be traumatic and painful experiences that can leave both physical and emotional scars. However, as long as adequate, timely and appropriate treatment is given in the majority of cases the prognosis is excellent. Although there aren't any exact figures about 60-90% of bites are caused by Dogs and between one third and a half of bites occur in children. In 70% of these cases the victims are bitten by their own Dog or a dog they are familiar with. According to one report, in the UK, you are more likely to be killed by a lightening strike than you are from a dog attack!

First Aid for bites:

Before you begin to treat the victim make sure that the situation is safe for you and the victim. Make sure that the dog is not around by either taking the victim away or getting the owner of the dog to remove the dog and either chain it up or shut it up away from you. You should try to find out the name and address of the owner, the breed and immunization status of the dog if possible as this may be useful if further treatment or action is required.

Try to stop the bleeding but only use tourniquets as a last resort for severe bleeding that can't be controlled in any other way. If possible keep the injured part elevated above the heart to control the bleeding.

The mouth carries many bacteria which can cause infection in a wound so it is vital to clean the wound thoroughly with boiled, cooled water for 5-10 minutes. Running water is preferable otherwise soak the area in water that is frequently changed (you should wear gloves while you do this to protect yourself).

Don't apply antibacterial lotions on an animal bite as some bacteria in saliva can actually proliferate, or reproduce quickly in a short interval, in certain creams. Some may also damage the skin tissue and healing.

Apply direct pressure to the wound with a clean cloth. Dress the wound with a non-adhesive, sterile gauze and bandage. Watch for signs of infection, if they develop up to 48 hours after the bite you should see your doctor. Bites, by definition, break the skin which allows bacteria from the saliva in the animal's mouth to seep into the open wound and can result in infection. Antibiotic prophylaxis is normally given. Prophylaxis is a Greek word meaning an advance guard; in medical terms it means a measure is taken to maintain health and prevent the spread of a disease or condition.

If any parts are actually torn off during an attack (such as an ear) then you should wrap the part in clean tissue paper, store it in a plastic bag surrounded by ice and take it with you to the hospital.

Signs and symptoms of infection:


  • Pain around the wound

  • Redness

  • Tenderness

  • Swelling

  • Pus or discharge

  • Fever

  • Swollen glands


First Aid for infections:

The wound should be covered with a sterile bandage leaving the area surrounding it visible so that you can monitor signs of spreading. Try to keep the wound elevated and supported. See your doctor as soon as possible to prevent further complications.

The risk of infection is particularly high in punctures, hand injuries, full thickness wounds, those needing surgical debridement, and wounds involving joints, tendons, ligament and fractures. Also infections are more likely if the wound is deep or dirty, or if there is a lot of blood under the wound.

Certain factors make some people more vulnerable to infection:


  • Diabetes mellitus. (Increases the risk of Pasteurella infection)

  • Alcoholics. (Increases the risk of Pasteurella infection)

  • Cirrhosis or liver scarring.

  • People on steroid therapy. (Increases the risk of Pasteurella infection)

  • Rheumatoid arthritis. (Increases the risk of Pasteurella infection)

  • Lymphoedema after radiotherapy. (Increases the risk of Pasteurella infection)

  • Asplenia which is the absence of normal spleen function.

  • Wounds more than six hours old.

  • Devitalised tissue.

  • Previously sutured wounds.

  • Full thickness wounds involving tendons, joints or ligaments.

  • Bites on limbs especially the hands.

  • Those with compromised immune systems due to drugs or illness.

Pasteurella is a bacteria found in most animals. If a wound is infected by these bacteria then the wound becomes red and inflamed, this occurs rapidly: within 24 hours and there is significant pain and swelling. Occasionally it can cause pneumonia or other respiratory infections; very rarely it causes kidney infections or meningitis. If it is treated promptly with antibiotics then the prognosis is good. However if any infection is left untreated then it may spread to the bloodstream causing blood poisoning, or cause swelling, stiffening of the joints and tissue damage.

Complications:

Scarring. In children, dog bites frequently involve the face, potentially resulting in severe lacerations (cuts) and scarring.

Infections:


  • Such as tetanus, rabies, septicaemia, septic arthritis, tendonitis, peritonitis, meningitis and osteomyelitis which is infection of the bone.

  • Wound infection occurs in 2-30% of dog bites.

  • Infections from bites are polymicrobial, (more than one species involved) often including anaerobes which can survive without oxygen. Common bacteria include Staphylococcus, Streptococcus, Eikenella, Pasteurella, Proteus, Klebsiella, Haemophilus, Entrobacter, Capnocytophaga, Canimorsus and Bacteroides.

Fractures.

Disfigurement.

If you sustained the bite abroad then you may be at risk of rabies. At the moment the UK is largely free from rabies (although some bats carry the disease in the UK), but it is common in Africa, Asia, Central and South America and some cases have been reported in Eastern Europe. Rabies is a serious illness that can be fatal to humans so if you are bitten or scratched abroad you should seek immediate medical attention even if you don't think you have contracted anything-rabies is virtually undetectable in the early stages. You should contact the Health Protection Agency Centre for Infection or Health Protection Scotland. Staff will need to know:


  • Your previous vaccination status

  • The country where you were bitten

  • The site and date of the bite

  • Whether the attack was provoked or not

  • Whether it was a domestic or feral dog

  • The current health of the animal if this is known.

The treatment to prevent rabies developing is called post-exposure prophylaxis and it involves 1 dose of rabies immunoglobulin (this is a blood product which contains antibodies against rabies) and 5 doses of rabies vaccine. If prophylaxis is required, it is usually obtainable from these centres as is the rabies vaccine (which is injected into the muscle) and the human rabies immunoglobulin.

Hospital Treatment:

About one in five people who are bitten by a dog seek medical attention, of those only 1% require hospital admission.

Some bites can be particularly serious and require more attention than just first aid. Also injuries can be more extensive than they appear especially puncture wounds as these are small but deep and can damage tendons or joints. Wounds can be quite complex as bites can involve sheering forces: the dog embeds its teeth into your skin, you react by pulling away and the skin tears. You should see your doctor if:

the bite is on:


  • the hand,

  • the foot,

  • a joint,

  • a tendon,

  • a ligament

  • the scalp,

  • the face,

  • the ears,

  • the nose,



  • You require antibiotics; you will also usually need admitting to hospital.

  • You think an infection has developed or is likely to develop.

  • You have bleeding that doesn't stop after 15 minutes of direct pressure

  • You think you have a broken bone or nerve damage

  • You are not up date with your tetanus vaccine

  • You were bitten by a dog with unknown immunisation status

When you see a doctor they may ask for the following information:

- Breed of dog. This is particularly important as a bite from a larger dog is more likely to damage deeper structures such as tendons or bone.
-Health status of the animal
- Time and location of the event
- Circumstances (i.e. a provoked or unprovoked attack.)
- Location of the animal now
- Any pre-hospital treatment
- Any factors which are likely to compromise immunity such as HIV or steroid therapy
- Any recent antibiotics (if infection is present in a patient taking antibiotics then this may suggest the infection is caused by a resistant organism)

Your wound should be washed with a normal saline or drinking water to remove the dirt and bacteria. If the wound is contaminated then a 1% providone solution is used as it is better than saline. The providone is diluted so it is germicidal but not toxic to the tissues. If you have not been immunised against tetanus within the last 5-8years then a booster shot is usually administered. However contracting tetanus from a dog bite is rare.

Sometimes debridement is required which involves medically removing dead, damaged or infected tissue, either by surgical, mechanical, chemical or autolytic (self-digestion) means. Dead or damaged skin needs to be removed because it is an ideal place for infection to develop. Also debridement helps to remove any blood clots or foreign bodies that might be lodged in the wound. Cleaning the wound and debridement is more important than medication in many cases.

Once the wound has been properly cleaned then primary suturing (stitches) may be performed. This is particularly good for facial wounds as there is an excellent blood supply to speed up healing. Gaping wounds may need to be stitched, glued or held together with steri strips. Suturing can help to prevent scarring and improve the cosmetic outcome. However some wounds may be left open for a few days to ensure that they aren't infected before they are closed up. Delayed closure for 3-5 days is usually done in cases where the bite is on the hand, those with extensive crush injuries, wounds that need considerable debridement and wounds that are more than six hours old. During this time they should be covered with a sterile, non-adhesive dressing to prevent any more bacteria entering the wound and causing infection.

Antibiotics may be prescribed to prevent infection and should provide protection against Pasteurella bacteria, anaerobes and staphylococci. At first this may be given intravenously through a drip into a vein. Antibiotics are useful for:


  • All wounds after primary closure

  • Puncture wounds

  • Large wounds

  • Bites to the hand and wrist. Antibiotic prophylaxis significantly reduces the risk of infection in bites on the hand, but they may not be as effective for bites elsewhere.

  • Bites on the face

  • Crush wounds with devitalised tissue

  • Wounds that required surgical debridement

  • Wounds involving joints, tendons, ligaments or fractures

  • Dog bite injuries to genitals

  • High risk patients such as those with diabetes, those with compromised immune systems, splenectomy, those on chemotherapy, splenectomy, artificial heart valves, rheumatoid arthritis and those with prosthetic joints.

In mild infections co-amoxiclav is usually prescribed as a first line of treatment. However, antibiotics are not usually needed for bites that are 2 days old and aren't showing signs of infection: infection has normally developed by this time if bacteria are present.




About this Author


Have you suffered injury as a result of an accident or somebody else's wrong doing? If so, and it wasn't your fault we can help you make a compensation claim for your physical, psychological and financial losses.

At Macks we understand the importance of a good lawyer / client relationship. We pride ourselves on looking after our clients, communicating effectively and listening to people's needs.

To receive advice and help for your situation call Free phone 0800 652 4321 or 01642 252828.



Article Source:
http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Fox_Harrison

Friday, February 17, 2012

How To Know If A Dog Has Worms - Learn To Tell The Signs Of A Worm Infection

Worms can make your Dog sick, and in worse cases, such as for heartworm, are fatal. All Dogs should be on preventive medication for at least heartworms. However, there are many varieties of worms that can infect your dog. You need to learn how to know if your dog has worms as early as possible so that you can obtain proper treatment for your dog.

Some commons worms and their eggs or larvae are visible to the naked eye. For example, mature roundworms can be six or seven inches long. Tapeworm segments are about the size of a grain of rice. Thus, visible worms or eggs in fecal matter are a clear warning sign that your dog has worms. In general, a decline in health, such as weight loss or dry fur, are all possible signs that your dog has worms, since they steal your dog's nutrition and make your dog sick. Very sick dogs have also been known to vomit worms.

Because not all worms, or their eggs, are visible to the naked eye, if you cannot see any worms, you should still get confirmation by a veterinarian. Even for visible worms and eggs, if the infection is mild and the density or eggs is low, you might not find the evidence by yourself. Visiting a veterinarian will ensure that you know if your dog has worms or not.

You will need to bring a fresh sample of fecal matter to your veterinarian, who will use a microscope to search for worms and eggs. For some kinds of worms, you may require other kinds of diagnostics. For example, heartworms are often diagnosed with blood tests.

The good news is that worms are treatable. However, to keep your dog healthy and happy, you need to learn how to tell if your dog has worms. If there are any warning signs, check the fecal matter and visit a veterinarian. There are standard worm preventive medications, as well, and every dog should at least be on a heartworm preventive.




About this Author


To learn additional tips on how to tell if your dog has worms, what dogs are at risk for worms, how to treat worms, as well as how to prevent worms, visit http://www.squidoo.com/doghasworms



Article Source:
http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Johan_Lewis

Monday, February 13, 2012

Animal Testing - The Pros and Cons

There are many people who hold strong opinions about the ethics of animal testing for drugs and cosmetics, but we wondered just how well they have considered the pros and cons of the matter. For that reason we decided to write this short article.

Fine, let us get started. On one side you have the "Pro", the positions in favor:

The number one point in support for animal testing is that animal testing, when used for drug testing, and to a lesser extent for cosmetics testing, should make it safer for humans to use these products without unacceptable risks of significant side effects occurring.

The second supporting point will be that surely society and the drug and cosmetics companies should make sure that everything that can be done to protect human health when using new products, is done before a drug or a cosmetic product is put on the market, and that would include animal testing.

For balance then let's listen to the other side, those opposed, the "Con" side:

The 1st point in contra for this type of testing will be that it is a very big leap on some occasions to say that once animal testing is completed and shows no significant negative effects on animals, a product will be safe for human consumption. Humans and animals can react quite differently to chemicals and the animal tests may be useless in protecting human health when this happens. It is possible on such occasions that animals may be made to suffer without there being any positive outcome from their suffering.

The second point in contra will be the fact that surely there will be some animal suffering, involved on many occasions, otherwise the tests would not be undertaken in the first place

The 3rd point in contra is going to be that it is hard to justify any suffering even among animals for frivolous products, which may include some cosmetics in the minds of many people.

A fourth negative point is that as human tests will be needed, and humans must in the end be subjected to trials on the products first investigated using animal tests, surely it should be possible to find a way to avoid the animal testing stage, in some way.

5th and lastly, against is that the continued use of animals for testing new products may inhibit the development of other techniques for doing the same tests, which could otherwise be devised by scientists.

So there we have all the arguments from each side.

Finally then, what is the "bottom line" here? Is animal testing ) bad or good?

The reply is apparently "Yes" to both questions! animal testing cannot, we are told by the scientists involved, be completely avoided to stop discomfort and possibly some pain to animals, as without animal testing human users would be put at greater risk when using these products (pharmaceutical drugs, cosmetics etc). Now that is a mixture of good and bad... You, our reader must pick which side, the good or the bad, outweighs the other.




Find out some ways to live in harmony with planet earth, and cease threatening its wonderful diversity of life by visiting my climate change web site.

There are great dog breed information articles, and many others about all aspects of keeping dogs as pets, at The Dog Breeds Compendium.

Saturday, February 11, 2012

Micro Pig - Is a Micro Pig the Right Pet For Me?

The Micro Pig, also known as a Teacup Pig, is the center of attention in the UK as well as the US. Micro pigs are cute, lovable pint-size porkers that is giving the term "bringing home the bacon" a new meaning. Knowing what you are getting yourself into before you bring home your miniature pet pig will help you to be a responsible pet parent.

What is a Teacup Pig?

The real question is "What is a micro pig?" because a "teacup pig" really does not exist. The term teacup pig was coined by enthusiastic shutter bugs who circulated pictures of baby micro pigs. Weighing only a fraction of a pound at birth, a 3 - 5 day old piglet can fit into a large teacup, hence the term "teacup pigs". These cute little piglets will grow to the size of a medium-sized Dog in about 3 years. An adult size micro pig is about knee-high at 12 - 16 inches and weighs 40- 65 lbs. The micro pig is a mixture of 4 breeds of pigs - Potbellied, Tamworth, Kune Kune and Gloucester Old Spot.

Why is the Micro pig an ideal pet?


  1. Unlike popular myth, the micro pigs are very clean because they can be litter box trained in a few days.

  2. Like their canine friends, micro pigs are intelligent. They can learn various tricks.

  3. Micro pigs loved to be loved, are highly social and loyal to their owners.

  4. A fur allergy sufferers' friend because their skin composition is similar to humans and they have hair, not fur.

  5. They bond very well with Dogs and cats.

  6. They do not have fleas.

Things to consider before buying a Micro pig:


  1. They can become very destructive if left alone for any length of time.

  2. Like children, everything goes in their mouth. Your home needs to be 'pig proofed'. For example, pigs can open cupboards.

  3. Many kennels are not equipped to provide quality care the the pet pig. An alternative is to make sure someone can move in and care for your pig while you are away.

  4. Find a vet before getting the pig to make sure they are qualified to care for pigs. You may not have a vet available who knows how to treat micro pigs.

  5. You need to be aware of your local laws - you need to be registered to keep 'livestock' and you may need to be zoned to keep farm animals.

If you are considering buying a micro pig, do your homework and be prepared for the kind of attention that your pet will need. If you choose to become a Micro Pig owner, you will be rewarded with an intelligent, affectionate, and loving pet.




Providing valuable content, like "Micro Pig - Is A Micro Pig The Right Pet For Me?" is what I love to do.

Visit Premium Niche Content to see how you can use high quality, authoritative articles in your niche or industry.

Luvisha Clarke is one of the freelance writers at http://www.PremiumNicheContent.com

Friday, February 10, 2012

Why Parrots and Birds Need More Than Seed and Pellets

Did you know that malnutrition and under nutrition is the leading causes of illness, disease and early death in birds? Do you want your birds to be healthy, have beautiful feathers and a wonderful disposition? If these things are important to you, then they need to consume hundreds of nutrients everyday. This means they need to eat foods that are much more nutritious than seeds, pelleted diets, fruit, vegetables and nuts. When I first began caring for birds, in 1998, all the nutritional guidelines encouraged us to feed a wide variety of foods. However, since then I've discovered that the foods most people feed their birds are missing vital and essential nutrients.

What are these required nutrients? The vital and essential nutrients that a bird needs to eat every day includes complete protein, enzymes, antioxidants, vitamins, minerals, essential fatty acids, carbohydrates, and fresh water.

Before I explain the importance of these nutrients, let's discuss the imbalances in foods most commonly fed to parrots and other birds.

In 2002 a research paper, 'Estimated Nutrient Content of Diets Commonly Fed to Pet Birds', by L. Hess DVM, G. Mauldin, DVM, MS, and K. Rosenthal, DVM, MS, that was published in the March 30, 2002, issue of "The Veterinary Record" the short comings of the typical avian diet were identified. The variety of foods eaten by the birds in this survey included formulated diets (pellets), seeds and human foods. The results of this study revealed that 80 percent of the birds consumed less protein than recommended for basic maintenance, nearly 58 percent consumed less than recommended amounts of Vitamin A. With vitamin D3, 98.5 percent consumed less than the recommended amounts for maintenance. Nearly 96 percent of the birds consumed calcium levels below those recommended for proper maintenance while nearly 93 percent had phosphorus levels below recommended levels.

Typical Foods = Limited Nutrients

Seeds. Avian veterinarians will agree that feeding a seed based diet is one of the leading causes of malnutrition in birds. Seeds do not provide compete protein, they are an incomplete protein source. Just imagine if you ate rice, and only rice, every day all year long, you'd become malnourished and undernourished just like birds who are fed seeds as their main staple. Seeds are very high in fat and carbohydrates. They do contain significant amounts of vitamin E, but generally lack other vitamins and have very few minerals. They do not contain enzymes or antioxidants.

Pelleted and formulated diets were created to contain more of the essential nutrients that are missing in seeds. But they still fall short of providing all of the hundreds of nutrients our birds need. Formulated diets are usually formulated to provide a source of complete protein from plant sources. They also may contain select minerals, and some added vitamins, usually vitamin A and D3. The main concern to be aware of regarding formulated diets is the nutrients they are missing. Formulated diets are limited to the vitamins that have been added, they completely lack enzymes, have no antioxidants - unless a small amount of vitamin E has been added. Vitamin E is a common food preservative known for its antioxidant properties.

When fresh fruits and vegetables are fed raw these foods do contain some vitamins, minerals, some enzymes and may contain antioxidants. These foods also contain carbohydrates. Any proteins in these foods are incomplete.

Nuts contain fats, including essential fatty aids. However they do not contain balanced amounts of essential fatty acids for each species of parrot.

So if pellets, seeds, fresh fruit, vegetables and nuts do not provide adequate nutrition for the birds under your care, what else should you feed? Before discussing the ideal diet for your birds, let's have a brief refresher on why certain nutrients are so important and must be include in your bird's diet every day.

Nutrients Vital for the Avian Body

Proteins - the proteins, from plant sources, that your bird eats must contain the proper balance of all the essential amino acids to make the food a complete protein. Complete proteins are essential to life, they provide the body with the basic nutritional building blocks that form healthy cells and nourish all body functions.

Enzymes are required by all bodily functions. Although raw fruits and vegetable contains some enzymes, our birds do not consume nearly enough of these vital nutrients. Heat, temperatures over 118 degrees, destroy enzymes.

Antioxidants have developed the reputation for healing a wide variety of diseases and ailments. This can occur because antioxidants neutralize and protect the body from free radicals. Free radicals break down and destroy delicate body tissues and cells. Free radicals have been identified as causing disease, illness and even the aging process itself. For disease prevention it is vital to consume a wide variety of antioxidants. There are many categories of antioxidants and thousands of them have been identified. Raw fruits and vegetable contains some enzymes, most birds do not consume nearly enough enzymes in their daily diet. Heat destroys antioxidants.

Vitamins are essential to life. They regulate the metabolism and facilitate numerous biological processes. They are micronutrients because the body needs them in small amounts when comparing them to carbohydrates, proteins, fats and water. Heat destroys vitamins.

Specific vitamins that have been identified as being essential for birds are vitamins A, D3 and E. When discussing vitamin A we must make the distinction between rentinol vitamin A (the fat soluble vitamin) and beta carotene (the vitamin A precursor that can be converted to vitamin A in a healthy liver). Vitamin A (rentinol A) is essential for normal disease resistance. It improves and supports the immune system by increasing the production and differentiation of immune related cells.

Vitamin D3 is important for maintaining the balance of calcium and phosphorus levels in the body. D3 is also known as the sunshine vitamin because is produced in the skin of birds after exposure to ultraviolet light from ether direct sunlight or indoor full spectrum lighting.

Vitamin E is an antioxidant known for being important in preventing cancer, cardiovascular disease and prevents cell damage by preventing the formation of free radicals. This vitamin improves circulation, is needed for tissue repair and promotes normal blood clotting.

Other vitamins required by birds are vitamins B complex, C, K, P (bioflavonoids) and coenzyme Q10.

Minerals, every living cell in a bird's body depends on minerals for proper functioning and structure. Macro-minerals must be consumed in larger quantities, while trace minerals are required in smaller amounts. The chemical balance of a bird's body is directly dependent on its balance of minerals. The minerals most commonly discussed in avian nutrition are calcium and phosphorus. Calcium is vital for strong bones, maintains proper blood coagulation, membrane permeability, maintains heart beat regularity and normal functioning of the nervous system. Phosphorus has the widest range of biological functions in the avian body, more than any other element. The ideal calcium to phosphorus ratio for birds is 2 to 1.

Other minerals required by birds include magnesium, manganese, iron, zinc, potassium, iodine, selenium, chlorine and sodium.

The avian body also needs essential fatty acids (EFAs). They are required by every living cell in the body. EFAs cannot be made by the body, balanced amounts must be consumed in the diet. They have many desirable effects on a variety of disease conditions. Heat destroys EFAs.

Carbohydrates - the most commonly available nutrient, supplies the body with the energy it needs to function.

Water, many people provide tap water for their birds. The water you and your birds drink should always be of high quality. Either filtered at home, or purchase a good quality bottled spring water. Do not drink or give your birds distilled or RO (reverse osmosis) filtered water. Distilled and RO water is completely void of all minerals and must be re-mineralized before drinking. I have done extensive research on this topic. The World Health Organization has complied a comprehensive data base, consisting of several hundred pages, that discusses the problematic effects that drinking RO or distilled water has had on various human populations worldwide. These waters can cause a variety of serious, debilitating health conditions in people, birds and other animals. The body's water supply is responsible for and involved in nearly every bodily process. We and our birds must consume good quality spring or filtered water.

After reading about all these important nutrients you may be thinking about rushing out and buying a multivitamin and mineral supplement - stop. I'm going to teach you how to select foods to ensure you're feeding a nutrient rich diet to your birds.

The Ideal Avian Diet

You can begin improving the level of health and wellness right away by feeding your birds the most nutrient dense food on the planet - sprouts. Sprouts? You may ask... like alfalfa sprouts? There's more to feeding sprouts than this. Let me explain.

When parrots and birds joined my family I began looking for a food that was comparable to the home made, organic, holistic foods I fed my own Dogs and cats. I was lead to sprouts. Well nourished birds have a natural resistance against disease and illness and handle stress much better than those who are missing key nutrients in their diet.

Vital Nutrients in Sprouts Every Bird Needs

When any seed, nut grain or legume is sprouted the entire chemical composition changes. Soaking triggers germination. At this phase a sprout's growth has just begun, Germinated seeds, grains and legumes must be allowed to grow for at least two to three days in order for them to reach their peak nutrition.

Properly grown sprouts contain two qualities not present in any other food. First, sprouts are alive. They contain life force energy. Once any other fruit or vegetable has been picked or harvested, the nutrition it contains begins to decay. Sprouts are alive right up until the moment they are eaten. Secondly, because sprouts are alive they are brimming with a rich assortment and volume of nutrients not found in any other single food or combination of foods. The nutritional value in fresh fruits and vegetables is limited when compared with what sprouts offer.

The germination and sprout growing process transforms whole foods into a superfood. Sprouting causes the formation of vitamins and an increase in all vitamins present. Because of this they are a rich source of beta carotene (the vitamin A precursor), C,E and the B complex.

During the sprout growing process any minerals that are present become chelated, making them easier for the body to assimilate and use.

Sprouts also contain an overwhelming abundance of antioxidants. Important antioxidants found in sprouts include vitamins beta carotene, C and E, flavonoids and superoxide dismutase (SOD). Bean and legume sprouts contains anthocyanins, a powerful flavonoid. More than 4,000 flavonoids have been identified in nature.

When sproutable foods are germinated and allowed to grow they become an abundant source of enzymes. By nature enzymes are catalysts - substances that induce hundreds of thousands of biochemical processes in the body. In fact, enzymes make every single biochemical process in the body possible. The brain, nervous system, vascular system, cell regeneration, growth, immunity, the digestive system, and al the vital organs - the liver, kidneys, heart and lungs all depend on enzymes to function. Although all raw foods contain enzymes the amounts present in sprouts can be 10 to 100 times greater than the amounts that are present in raw fresh fruits and vegetables.

Like enzymes, proteins are also essential to life. Proteins form the structural basis of the chromosomes. Each DNA strand contains the genetic code that is the formula for making that cell's unique protein chain. Proteins are the primary building blocks that make up every cell in the body. In order for proteins to be able to build healthy muscles, blood, skin, feathers, nails and vital internal organs they must be complete proteins - they must contain all the essential amino acids in the proper amounts.

So where can you find a fresh supply of sprouts that provides a balance of all the essential nutrients your bird needs? The best source of fresh sprouts for your birds is to grow them yourself. And if you're new to sprouting it's important to learn how to grow them in a manner that is right for your climate and the unique conditions in your kitchen.

The Benefits of Feeding Sprouts

Some of the health improvements being documented from feeding a sprouting blend that has been formulated to contain complete protein include the complete reversal of avian cataracts, the prevention of arthritis and arteriosclerosis and indications that the immune system of these birds is significantly supported so that bacterial and candida infections have been eliminated.

Sprouting Blend Essentials

Since birds joined my family I've come to understand that there are certain qualities to look for in a sprouting blend if you want to nourish good health and wellness in your parrots and other birds.

1. The blend must have been formulated to provide complete protein.

2. The blend must have a compatible germination rate, so that it can grow and reach optimal nutrition levels.

3. For optimal nutrition, the blend must be allowed to grow for 2 to 3 days. If you've seen the claims that 'Soaked is More Nutritious", please know this statement is false.

4. The blend should be a USDA Certified Organic sprouting Blend. Research continues to link pesticides in our food and water to illness and disease.

5. Look for a blend formulated by a person who is knowledgeable in avian nutrition.

Now that you know what to look for in a good, quality sprouting blend you should be able to start feeding your birds this super food right away.

Putting it All Together

After you've found a sprouting blend that meets the criteria outlined here, and learned to sprout then you can begin creating health producing meals for your parrots and other birds. I suggest that the complete protein, properly grown, sprouting blend make up 50 to 80 percent of your birds diet. This will vary depending upon the type of diet your bird has been on, and their overall condition. Their overall condition should be determined by your avian vet.

After you have a freshly grown batch of sprouts then you can add some fresh fruit, raw or steamed vegetables, and a few nuts, appropriate for your species of bird. I suggest that parrots be weaned off of seed because of their poor nutrient content. I also suggest that you avoid feeding your parrots pasta, breads, and some of the other cooked foods available for birds. These items contain very little nutrition, mostly carbohydrates. I do suggest that a good organic pellet can make up a portion of a parrot's diet.

As far as portion sizes, if you feed 50 percent sprouts, then the remaining 50 percent can be a combination of fresh fruit, vegetable, nuts and pellets. In the beginning it's a good idea to measure the amounts of food you serve so that you gain a realistic view of how much of each food to feed. For example, if you feed 1/4 cup of sprouts then you can combine other healthy foods to measure 1/4 cup, and then you have a highly nutritious and well balanced meal for the birds under your care.

In Health & Healing for Parrots and All Birds.

Enjoy Sprouting!




Leslie Moran is an internationally recognized expert in avian nutrition and holistic and natural care. She provides personal consultations for parrots and all birds and has been using food choices to create healthy companion animals for nearly 30 years. Leslie has a monthly column, "The Holistic Parrot", that appears in Parrots magazine (http://www.parrotmag.com). This publication is published in England with distribution in over 60 countries. Because she understands the value of feeding nutrient rich foods, Leslie has created her own bird food line, the Best Bird Food Ever! Sprouting Blends. These have been especially formulated to enrich the health and well being of parrots and all birds. They are USDA certified organic, contain compete protein and have a compatible germination rate so they can be properly grown for 2 - 3 days for optimum nutrition.

If you are new to sprouting learn to sprout for your unique climate in Leslie's book, "The Complete Guide to Successful Sprouting for Parrots". This book contains a wealth of information and covers more than just sprouting. Many people consider it their avian nutrition bible.

Visit her website at http://www.BestBirdFoodEver.com, when you purchase put the discount code 'EZA11-11' in the Paypal message to vendor area and you'll receive a 10% discount.

Wednesday, February 8, 2012

How to Avoid and Treat Eye Infections in Dogs

Pet owners want the best for the pets and that includes keeping their pets healthy by trying to prevent diseases and illnesses and treating them when they occur. Unfortunately eye infections are fairly common in pets. They can crop up on their own or occur when something lodges in the eye. They can also occur when the surface of the eye, called the cornea, gets scratched.

The common warning signs to look out for that your pet has an eye infection are: eye discharge, squinting, redness, cloudiness, and trying to rub and scratch the eye.
Rubbing or scratching of the eye can make things worse for your pet. One of those cone shaped instruments that covers the head will prevent your pet from rubbing their eyes and further irritating the condition.

Eye discharge may be ugly, but it's a valuable warning sign that something is wrong. This is important because infections can progress very quickly and even in some cases cause permanent eye damage. Discharge is a telltale sign of infection and will often be thick, yellow, gray, or green. Any off-colored eye discharge that persists for longer than 48 hours without improvement should be seen by a vet.

Infections of the eye and surrounding structures are common in pets and usually involve the conjunctiva, leading to conjunctivitis or "pink eye." Causes of infections include various bacteria, viruses like the Herpes virus, foreign material or irritants in the eye and even Lyme disease. Eye infections may become chronic if not treated and can cause permanent damage such as blindness if neglected.
Some Dog breeds are more likely to get eye infections than others. Before you get a Dog, research its breed to see if they are more prone to eye infections.

If you think your pet has an eye infection, you should get them examined at the Vet for a test, treatment, and to prevent permanent damage from occurring. Vets often recommend applying an antibiotic ointment made especially for the eye. Other treatments besides an ointment are eye drops and all natural herbal treatments. Medications can be received from the Vet and there are also many websites that offer medications for Dog and cat eye infections, some being homeopathic or all natural medications. If you want to save money, you can usually get medications cheaper online than at the Vet.

To sooth the painful side effects of an eye infection, there is a product called Newtons Homeopathics Eye Irritation. It relieves pain, itching, dryness, swelling, redness, tired eyes, pink eye, and thick yellow discharge of the eyes.

Sometimes your pet will get an eye infection no matter what. You just can't prevent it. However, there are steps you can do to help prevent your pet from getting an eye infection and to maintain optimum eye health. The steps are:

o Always keep your dog head inside moving vehicles

o Check your dog's eyes on a regular basis

o Make sure its annual veterinary checkup includes a thorough eye exam.

o Keep your dog's eyes clean by wiping away any discharge that may accumulate.

There is a product called Halo Herbal Eye Wash which will keep your pet's eyes clean, open tear ducts, and sooth irritated tissue. I keep this handy at home to use on my pets eyes regularly as a way of keeping them clean and infection free.




Jean Morgan writes regularly on pet health matters at http://natureshealthypet.com

Tuesday, February 7, 2012

Steroids For Dogs - Tips & Cautions For Quick Relief of Allergy Symptoms

Steroids for Dogs: In the control of intense allergy symptoms, anti-inflammatory steroids provide highly effective relief of inflammation and swelling. They are most often used for a short period of time while testing is performed and other means of control of the symptoms of Dog allergies is put into place.

Anti-inflammatory steroids are usually prescribed orally and initially given at a starting dose, with subsequent doses tapered until discontinued. A Dog steroid should never be stopped abruptly or before the completion of the entire series of doses is given as prescribed by your veterinarian. This is because tapering the drug correctly is necessary in order to prevent a possible deficit of adrenaline in the dog's body.

Be aware that canine steroids are also used for other medical conditions other than the allergies that dogs have, these include inflammation of the brain, spine, stomach, and intestines, as well as arthritis and immune mediated diseases.

In dog allergy treatment, canine steroids are considered the most problematic of canine medications because of the side effects of both short term and long term steroid use. However, this should not dissuade you from the use of a canine steroid because there are instances when a canine steroid is the only medication capable of bringing quick control of the severe symptoms of dog allergies.

Although intended for short-term use, there are situations when a dog steroid must be used on a continuing or on-going basis. However, when possible they should be used only for short-term treatment for dog allergies, or other conditions as determined by your family veterinarian.

Side effects from anti-inflammatory steroids in dogs are more numerous than in cats. The most common are a drastic increased in appetite and continuous thrust, with the resulting frequent urination and unexpected weight gain. Other side effects include mood swings, which can be disconcerting, and panting. Long term steroid use can cause skin lesions and very serious changes inside the body, most notably Cushing's Disease. With long term steroid use these internal changes can shorten the dog's life span.

Nevertheless, anti-inflammatory steroids are one of the most important and highly effective canine medications used today. When needed, canine steroids are efficient in controlling inflammation and swelling, allowing relief from symptoms, and allowing time for blood tests, lab work, allergy skin testing, and for determining and implementing a course of treatment most suitable to your dog.




Allen MacAlister is a veterinary medical student and writes about dog allergies on his site: Dog Allergies. Read more about canine steroids at: "Dog Steroids: A Blessing to Be Used with Awareness."

Monday, February 6, 2012

Shackles

"Chief, this is a hot one", I somehow managed to say in a quivering voice as I choked back tears, "please stop what you are doing and get this message out to the fleet, top priority". "Aye aye sir," came the customary nautical acknowledgement, as the Chief grabbed the message and hurried off in the direction of the Communications Center.

After only a few steps, however, apparently having read the first few lines of the message, Chief Petty Officer Smith stopped suddenly in his tracks and turned back toward me in disbelief. His mouth opened, but he didn't say anything. He didn't have to. I knew what he was thinking and solemnly nodded my head in understanding.

Composing himself, he turned back around and headed again toward the Communications Center. The message would be electronically forwarded to major Coast Guard units in a matter of minutes for further dissemination to smaller units. Soon everyone would know.

I glanced again at my copy of the message I had just received from one of our isolated stations in the South Pacific. The Officer in Charge was sending the sad news that Seaman Shackles had passed away during the night.

Seaman Shackles wasn't really a Seaman. He wasn't even a person. He was a Labrador Retriever...a Dog; but a very special Dog. He had been the cherished mascot of a Coast Guard Loran Station for over a decade.

Most of the 200-plus Coast Guard operational shore units are staffed with a "Station Dog" like Shackles. This unofficial member of the crew is usually "enlisted" from a local shelter and made an honorary member of the crew.

Breed and gender are not important. The only prerequisite for the job is an affinity to love and be loved. To this end, the station Dog must be able to stand up to constant pampering and endure massive amounts of stroking and hugs.

Once onboard the base, the station dog must also work like any other member of the crew, albeit at somewhat less demanding duties. He/she must patrol the compound (in search of handouts); escort emergency crews to their response boats (for a pat on the head); and, enthusiastically greet those coming on watch (to conduct an olfactory once-over of their lunch bags).

As a member of the crew, the station dog is at liberty to dig holes, jump in vehicles with muddy feet, and borrow the only softball during a scheduled off-duty game with impunity. They are first in line at chow, last to settle down for the night and enjoy amnesty for anything chewed, buried or soiled.

Generally they are the best fed and most pampered animals on the planet; but they earn those privileges. They render a service that no other crewmember can provide. They make a station a home.

Shackles earned his privileges. He made his station home. He was eleven human years old when he passed, but during his short life he built a legacy that would far outlive him. Hundreds of sailors had been stationed at this isolated outpost during Shackles lifetime and he had befriended them all.

In the days when e-mail and cell phones were nothing more than growing ideas in the minds of electronic engineers, families were not just a push of the button away. Often mail would take a month to arrive. Dogs like Shackles played a critical role as companion and friend.

It was common for sailors to become lonely and homesick on this little strip of land in the middle of the ocean. Many found a piece of home in Shackles. He wanted to be everyone's friend. If you were lonely, if you needed a friend, he was your boy. He always had time for you.

Without realizing the role he played, Shackles made life on the island bearable for many. One could run up the beach with this loving communal canine and forget, at least temporarily, that they missed home. Over the years he had impacted thousands of lives in just this way.

All of them had come and gone, but he remained. They were honored for their year-long sacrifice with military decorations and great fanfare, but not Shackles. He remained an unsung hero; but he didn't mind. He enjoyed doing his part and that was all the reward he needed.

Nevertheless, when he passed, his song was finally sung by a fleet of heartbroken, grateful sailors. A shipmate had fallen and it was time to honor him for his service.




The author is a retired Coast Guard Officer with over 32 years of service. He is also a Baptist Preacher and Bible Teacher. He helps those grieving the loss of a pet to understand the Biblical evidence that proves they live on. His most popular book, "Cold Noses at the Pearly Gates" delivers hope and comfort to the reader in a very gentle, yet convincing way. Visit at http://www.coldnosesbook.com for more information, tips and gifts or write to Gary at petgate@aol.com